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Old 11-12-2013, 07:24 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Build looks good. You're further along in yours than I am. I've talked with Mario but have yet to send mine in, can't narrow down how I want it anno'ed. I know it's going to be a Banzai, just haven't decided how much. What did you decide on for yours?
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Old 11-13-2013, 01:07 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by TheePsycho View Post
I know nothing of this body really. I passed on it because of the back block and the crack in-between the two tubes that and two other Merlin's landed in my lap at the time. Just something I wouldn't buy without having it in front of me first since I would have no idea if it's a surface crack or went further. That being said I wouldn't anodize it without airing up the body first. But you should know how bad the crack is since it's in your possession.
There is a chip/crack between the upper and lower tubes, but it is in the back of the marker. If it was by the valve or front of the bottom tube I would have just used it as a paperweight. I would have loved to buy a P-block round body, but could not get one from AKA and nobody was selling one so I just took a risk on this one. You are a lucky dog to have two of them come to you easily at the same time...nice.

@ Mad Anthony, I will post up some pics when I get it back from anno. Bonzai is super nice and I bet yours will look great. I am getting a reverse splash fade, because I thought those a tequila sunrise fades were the best when I got into paintball. Actually any tri-fade or good splash seems to catch my eye.
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Old 11-13-2013, 01:08 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I hear you on that, I have another project, a old STO that's getting a sunset splash fade.
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Old 11-13-2013, 01:31 PM   #14 (permalink)
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tequila sunrise in a splash fade would look interesting.
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Originally Posted by freebird View Post
lube the shaft and warm the o-ring up in your hand by rubbing it back and forth between hands. then it should go on easier.
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Old 11-19-2013, 11:51 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I'd really really suggest staying away from Shocktech bolts, especially in Merlin bodies. Shocktech bolts are made a few hundreds thinner than all over cocker bolts. I assume they did this to reduce drag but it also can result in more blowback than other bolts. Additionally, Merlins use bolts which are a few hundreds thicker than normal cocker bolts (a real Merlin Lightening bolt will not even fit in a cocker body). If you're worried about blowback then a Shocktech bolt is honestly the last thing you'll want to use.
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Old 01-07-2014, 01:54 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Finally done and working.

It came back from FX anno in early December. With the holidays and such I could not seem to get the time to sit down and get her running. I got it going and have it timed, but have some leak issues around the valve. Not sure if it is the cup seal, the orings, or the valve retaining screw. I am going to take it apart and see if I can solve it before I get it to the field. I did not include the matching karni beavertail and 12" UL front in the pictures, but have them stowed away.
I cannot say enough good things about FX anno. Mario went out of his way to make sure everything was polished prefect, and matched everything perfect even with the fades/splash going throughout. The purple is crazy and changes with different angles in the sun. He communicated well and was done very quickly. Annos from other companies I have dealt with in the past took about one month +, with little or no communication whatsoever. My next project will go to him without question. Oh yeah, got a purple striped FX anno barrel bag that is perfect for this.

less talk, more pictures..







I do need to swap out the blue sticky 3s with black, or maybe some wood grips.
One of the QEVs needs to come off to make it more functional.
The barrel is milled for inserts and this will not stay on a wall.
Not sure about the eyes, but dragon eyes seemed like a good fit for a 'merlin'.
And no, I do not like the backblock either.
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Old 01-07-2014, 01:56 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Weird, the LPR looks crooked in one of the pictures. It is an optical illusion and that SCM is on straight.
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Old 01-07-2014, 11:58 AM   #18 (permalink)
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My favorite part is the LPC. Did you just screw it in or did you also remove the back half of the threads? Those LPCs in particular have horrible flow around the area where it transfers the air from the front block into the lower tube. There's just a possibility it could cause shootdown. I wonder if it will lower the operating pressure? Merlins already have a lot of volume in their lower tube and you have a medium top on your HPR that adds some volume too.

The backblock is delrin right? I don't think it's that bad. It might not look perfect in pictures but it's going to have notablly less recoil than if it were metal.

The valve leak is hopefully just the cup seal needing to be broken in. Take the HPR off and attach your HP tank directly to the gun. The extra pressure should force the valve shut and stop the leak. Keep it hook up if it's not leaking like a sieve when you air it up.

Last edited by minimag03; 01-07-2014 at 12:01 PM.
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Old 01-07-2014, 12:10 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Looks nice, Mario does wonderful work and great prep work before anodizing. My merlin last leaked because I tightened the valve retaining screw in too far. I backed it up a smidgen and it sealed right up, I blue lock tightened it to keep it set. If that doesn't work, put full pressure on it for a few hours and that has work for me before.
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Old 01-07-2014, 06:00 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by minimag03 View Post
My favorite part is the LPC. Did you just screw it in or did you also remove the back half of the threads? Those LPCs in particular have horrible flow around the area where it transfers the air from the front block into the lower tube. There's just a possibility it could cause shootdown. I wonder if it will lower the operating pressure? Merlins already have a lot of volume in their lower tube and you have a medium top on your HPR that adds some volume too.
I do not think the LPC will have much of an effect on the operating pressure, but it just seemed like a good fit to me. I think you're right that it is redundant with a merlin body/valve and a high flow reg with extra space on top, but again, it just seemed like the right choice for the build. The LPC is shaved down and locktited into the banjo. The banjo itself has been milled a lot and I do not believe it will have any shoot down. The valve spring 'holder' has even been milled with four pill shaped holes going lengthwise. I will take a picture of it next time I take it apart. It's a bear to get parts off the front block because almost everything, barbs/lpr/ram, has to come off too.

Thanks minimag03 and pbaline73 for the advice on the leak.
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