Paintball

[mfaded]

Can someone tell me what the GOOD, BETTER, and BEST options on an 04 Viking would be?

Other than the obvious ones...trigger frame, feedneck, etc.

Which options that I can get by with and which ones are the MUST-HAVES?

Or if there is already a thread for this, please direct me to it

thanks for any help.

[Garbageman705]

Sell it and buy an 03 Vikingjust kidding.

Some kind of magnetic trigger with a lightened micro switch, clamping feedneck, WAS 2.0 or Tadao board and a fast hopper.

[custar]

Originally Posted by mfaded

Can someone tell me what the GOOD, BETTER, and BEST options on an 04 Viking would be?

Other than the obvious ones...trigger frame, feedneck, etc.

Which options that I can get by with and which ones are the MUST-HAVES?

Or if there is already a thread for this, please direct me to it

thanks for any help.

Much of what you ask is personal preference. Stock Vikings are excellent and don't need upgrades to be first rate markers. Also, I don't care much about weight, while others want to shed every gram possible from their marker. If you are such a minimalist, milling will rate highly for you. If you are into bright colors, an anno job would rate highly. Otherwise, . . .

Assuming your '04 is fully stock and in good working order, you need a good board to run your marker. I like Tadao, but others prefer Pandora and yet others prefer WAS. If you have a Pandora board, Rmod is a highly desirable change. You will want WAS 2.0 if you have a WAS board.

Next, I much prefer a clamping feedneck to the stock feedneck, and I like no-rise over any other height. Moving down, if you have a SCM 1, you may be able to improve consistency with an internal LPR or an SCM 3. Gripframes are almost purely personal preference. I like my stock frames, but I am growing more fond of the FBM Fierce on my new-to-me Rollout. Grip panels are also personal preference but are significant in comfort considerations. Ditto with triggers. My FBM Fierce came with a delrin wave trigger that I like a lot, but I also feel the stock blade triggers are comfy enough I don't routinely swap out those.

[mfaded]

what about the regulators and noids?

I'm interested in just performance upgrades. Nothing cosmetic. I'm a flat black, unmilled kinda guy (for now anyway)

so the tadao, was, and pandora are pretty similar. what does a stock Viking come with?

[himurax13]

Originally Posted by mfaded

what about the regulators and noids?

I'm interested in just performance upgrades. Nothing cosmetic. I'm a flat black, unmilled kinda guy (for now anyway)

so the tadao, was, and pandora are pretty similar. what does a stock Viking come with?

There are no other noids available for the 04 Viking. Since a Viking can actually cycle at around 54 cps, there is no need for one. The sidewinder reg is one of the best regs on the market and unless you are consistently shooting well over a true 30 bps for extended periods of time, there is no need to upgrade. The best mods for a Viking are comfy grips, a good ASA, a feedneck to your liking, and of course a good trigger and trigger job. All of the boards, except for the stock pandora board, are decent. A properly tuned Viking with a good trigger job is all you really need, other than more paint. Unlike most guns that are made, the Viking and the Excaliber were made with excellent parts from the get go so any upgrades are more for aesthetics or comfort more than anything else.

[mfaded]

...and what about eyes?

I've been into mechs up until now. This would be my first electro. Are there differences in eyes?

[going_home]

Get one with eyes.
A Mitey Max or Destructive Customs volumizer , a Soda Can Mod (SCM) internal reg upgrade, and the must have Robtown valve mod are the main upgrades.
And the Tadao board is in my humble opinion, the best board for a Viking.

I've tried many different triggers and the Nurvious trigger is my favorite.

[freedom]

right now, the robtown valve will be hard to find.
i think DC will do another run, but i'm guessing it will take the usual 6 months.

if you can find an '04 w/ a RT valve, get it.

[himurax13]

Originally Posted by mfaded

...and what about eyes?

I've been into mechs up until now. This would be my first electro. Are there differences in eyes?

There were eyes for the Vikings were labeled under 2 or 3 different names but they are all exactly the same except for the color of the wires.

If you buy an 03 they usually come with the internal LPR. The 04's came the external LPR/SCM. I never really noticed too much of a difference between them but the SCM is supposed to be better because it is pressure compensating.

I can't speak for the Pandora but the WAS 2.0 and the Tadao Board both perform well, the Tadao board has a cooler multi-colored LED and has a few more options that you will probably never use.

[custar]

Originally Posted by himurax13

If you buy an 03 they usually come with the internal LPR. The 04's came the external LPR/SCM. I never really noticed too much of a difference between them but the SCM is supposed to be better because it is pressure compensating.

I can't speak for the Pandora but the WAS 2.0 and the Tadao Board both perform well, the Tadao board has a cooler multi-colored LED and has a few more options that you will probably never use.

An SCM I is more prone to creep and is more difficult to adjust downward. Not all SCM's I do so, but enough do that I would just swap out as a matter of course. That's why I recommended an upgrade from a SCM I if that is on the marker. An SCM III will have the same aesthetic appearance and be more stable than the SCM I. The internal LPR will have the same stability as the SCM III but will be flush with the face of the front of the marker, giving it a slightly different appearance.

Agreed on the boards. I like my Tadao, but I have an earlier Tadao that doesn't have all the options, keeping it simpler. That's a good thing for me.

custar