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Old 06-08-2008, 06:39 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Nothing hidden about it, just compare the pictures. It's nice!
Hes talking about milling that isn't shown on the external of the body.
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Old 06-08-2008, 09:44 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I'm looking but I dont see anything
Exactly.
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You have serious problems Himura. I remember when I first started buying guns I would oogle your collection.
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It is not a gun Titus... it is box. BIG difference. I am paying him $250 for a cardboard box, not my fault if things happen to found their way into it.
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Old 06-08-2008, 09:54 PM   #13 (permalink)
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How much did all that fat milling cost? All the original stuff too.
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Old 06-08-2008, 10:12 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Thumbs up

Very nice. What milling does she have other than the new internal cuts? Is that JmJ? DC FSP with some custom top tube cuts? Or what?

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The only way I could lose any more weight would be to change the grips, lose the SCM, lose the DC Volly, change out the feedneck, and to change the trigger. Personally I find this setup more to my liking.
Not that I'm one to cry about marker weight, but I bet an XSV duckbill ASA and aftermarket bolt pin would shave off a few more grams.
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Old 06-08-2008, 10:24 PM   #15 (permalink)
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So she is raw on the inside now?

I guess internal milling has evolved since you first had annie done? Show us the shots of what was actually machined..before and after?

Or did you go with the robtown valve / hammer / ram and the internal milling was already adequate?
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Old 06-08-2008, 11:31 PM   #16 (permalink)
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So she is raw on the inside now?

I guess internal milling has evolved since you first had annie done? Show us the shots of what was actually machined..before and after?

Or did you go with the robtown valve / hammer / ram and the internal milling was already adequate?
Total cost is around $1300, keep in mind I did buy it new over 4 years ago so that I could have the highest serial number other than Aaron's or Prarie's. I installed my buddy's Robtown valve cause he isn't using it (included in the cost) and Jared recently did his special extra hidden solenoid milling to augment Sam's solenoid milling on the last trip.



Basically all that is left of Sam's original milling was the top tube cut, the sides of the solenoid area, the area in front of the tray, and the ASA area(the second one but still the most extreme one). JMJ did the sides, the feedneck area, the trigger guard, and the buttcrack milling (the original). DC did the hidden tray milling, the hidden frame milling, and the extra hidden solenoid area. The bolt pin is delrin, so I doubt another bolt pin would make any difference.
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You have serious problems Himura. I remember when I first started buying guns I would oogle your collection.
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It is not a gun Titus... it is box. BIG difference. I am paying him $250 for a cardboard box, not my fault if things happen to found their way into it.
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Old 06-08-2008, 11:35 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Ahh... if only they were able to complete the Evil M. All that work is still pricey by today's standards and the weight savings aren't overly amazing for the cost.
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Old 06-08-2008, 11:40 PM   #18 (permalink)
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I feel sad that Sam Rhodes milling recieved the boot again.

He was ahead of his time at least and everyone should give him credit for pioneering most of the extreme viking milling.

Any before shot of the solenoid area? Arent your tubes themselves thinner than a normal JMJ viking ever was?

Any idea if a buttcrack behind the vertical ASA would be possible?
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Old 06-08-2008, 11:43 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Ahh... if only they were able to complete the Evil M. All that work is still pricey by today's standards and the weight savings aren't overly amazing for the cost.
Well its not like JMJ gave me a discount, even though it took them almost three months to mill my marker. Long turnaround times and high costs goes hand in hand with one off millings. Factor in all of the shipping costs to and from all of the different vendors. At least I paid less than 60% of the cost of the DCF #1 and #2. I think a 50% weight savings on the body and the frame were well worth the costs. Plus I can tell all of those who claim to have the "Lightest" Viking to STFU.

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Any before shot of the solenoid area? Arent your tubes themselves thinner than a normal JMJ viking ever was?

Any idea if a buttcrack behind the vertical ASA would be possible?
Crap, I don't know if I took any before pictures. Sam did mill the sides down originally and they are about flush with the back caps. It does seem thinner than my Streamline Vikings. I doubt the buttcrack milling in the ASA area between the ASA and the tray might not be possible due to the air passages but I could be wrong.
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You have serious problems Himura. I remember when I first started buying guns I would oogle your collection.
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It is not a gun Titus... it is box. BIG difference. I am paying him $250 for a cardboard box, not my fault if things happen to found their way into it.
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Old 06-10-2008, 08:02 PM   #20 (permalink)
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you may be lighter than the dcf #1 and it cost you less to build but, but, but, ah hell you win.
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