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|08-20-2009, 12:46 PM||#1 (permalink)|
merlin and other AKA questions...
ok i know someone somewhere is going to hate me for this but whats the difference between a merlin and a cocker? they look the same, seem to function the same, use the same pneus.... so whats the big deal?
second questions is why are there so many different millings of viking and excals? were they all AKA factory milled or did someone do a small run of them?
also what are the things in the front of a viking? the circle shaped things... is it just like a flow plug or something? also, where can i find one of the soda can ones (i saw someone had one that looked like a coke can...)
thanks for your help
|08-20-2009, 12:53 PM||#2 (permalink)|
I have no experiance with Merlins but Brand has a lot to do with the difference and I understand a larger inner air chamber was made to use low pressure but I could be wrong.
The Millings are just stylish ways of personalizing and taking weight off the stock Vikings and Excals, I know Destructive Customs does a lot of AKA milling what was factory and what wasn't is beyond my knowledge
The circle shaped things are plugs, they are in the back also. The ones in the front can be replaced with a Soda Can Mod (SCM), or a Mity Max Volumizer. IIRC the SCM is a LPR and the Volumizer is to help prevent shootdown.
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Last edited by Greenmtnphantom; 08-20-2009 at 01:06 PM.
|08-20-2009, 11:01 PM||#3 (permalink)|
Join Date: Jan 2009
The only difference between a merlin and a normal wgp cocker is that it is not a wgp body so the tolerances are said to be better. The lower tube is the same diameter as the upper tube all the way through with a larger valve, which has better flow and efficiency. Also most merlins are mini'ed and have wire detents which are said to last longer. That's about it, I just sold mine but am planning on making a merlin pump.
|08-20-2009, 11:15 PM||#4 (permalink)|
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Nor Cal
all the various mill jobs you see on vikings and excals are almost all aftermarket,AKA only offered 3 types,no milling,half mill,or full mill.
the caps you see on the front of a viking,the left is a cap over the valve is just a cap,but the right is the LPR,in the rear the left is just a cap the right is the hammer cart. the SCM is a replacment LPR available from aka still as far as i know
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|08-21-2009, 12:23 AM||#5 (permalink)|
A Merlin IS an autococker.
The lower tube is different, it is one size (ID) all the way, and it takes a valve that normal cockers dont take, a rather large valve. This valve allows it to operate at extra low pressures while maintaining good efficiency. Side effect is that the opening force seems to be a bit higher than good normal cocker valves, so the ram is going to be running a bit higher LPR pressure so its more likely to actually have enough force to cut a ball in half in the case of a short stroke.
Also not all merlins are mini's just almost all of them.
It is an autococker.
The other difference is that WGP autocockers have crappy feednecks. On bodies that are actually threaded they have a male threaded portion, so the feedneck screws over that. This leads to hoppers that are sitting higher than they do on almost any other gun.
And of course WGP bodies can be all over the place tolerance wise. Some are great, some are way off.
Basically the reason they are extra popular now is that there was kind of a renaissance of them, the name is mystical and people assume that they were by far the best autocockers ever made because they are AKALMP. They are definitely great but they aren't shoo ins.
Honestly they just have a great name and aka stuff has become semi mystical. They also have a nice blocky style that just looks rock solid. I love um. AKALMP offered a lot of different milling styles on merlins, random peppers and swooshes and swirls and tear drops and round bodies (basically a big slot with a rounded top tube). They were sold as kits for the most part.
Splatt attack made the "revenge" the revenge v1 is based off of the AKA VLM body which is simply a vertical feed mini cocker with 99 front block threads. This was made before WGP was putting out (or before they were obtainable) vertical feed bodies and everyone wanted them.
The revenge v2 is a merlin, they had trigger frames with the 4 way located in the center and the linkage went through the middle of the trigger frame. Supposed to make for a better trigger pull and at the least it looks nice and unique. The LPR is mounted in the center on the front block screw. The revenge is available in the type with swooshes that form an R on each side, or the LE which is a revenge roundbody. The revenge v3 is a unique gun with a side mounted ram, you dont need to worry about those because wolf 13 likely has the only one in existence.
Last edited by Cunha; 08-21-2009 at 12:28 AM.
|08-21-2009, 11:56 AM||#6 (permalink)|
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Napa, Ca.
Cool swag to promote your sport!
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Shipped price is valid to domestic buyers and will be USPS priority. International buyers are welcome, but will cover additional costs. Insurance costs are included. If you prefer an uninsured package, you the buyer will assume all risk once I ship.
|08-25-2009, 11:10 AM||#8 (permalink)|
Inch of Gold
One other thing to note about the in-line Revenges, you can't (easily) Eblade them. Not only because people will castrate then crucify you for drilling an eyehole, but because the front block doesn't have the same configuration and the EP solenoid and wiring harness won't fit. You need a new frontblock and new VA.
|08-25-2009, 12:25 PM||#9 (permalink)|
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Amherst NH
Umm had a eblade noid on my now gone revenege. had to lay it on its side. Ugly but fit. That was before I figured out the frame wouldnt fit. No forward mounting screw hole in the body. And I wasnt about to modify the frame. This is due to the centered 3 way link. There are 2 front mounting screws side by side.
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