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Old 01-29-2007, 12:08 AM   #11 (permalink)
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No, no. The J&J kit works fine. And it will be my front line barrel for the most part.

But I've got pumps that need help as well as I've got more cockers than I do J&J kits (currently 5 to 1 ratio if you include my sniper pump cockers) and I'd like to be able to use or loan out the odd one while the J&J is in use on some other body. So do I NEED to do this? I suppose I'd have to say no. But it is a way to actually use some barrels that have a good rep that are not useable otherwise due to the rollout issue. I've got an Xcel, an older Ultralight one piece (on my WGP Ranger) and a Lapco that are all pretty much useless thanks to rollouts with today's smaller paint sizes.

And yes I could tape, paint or add epoxy wedgits but if this works it'll be a one time effort with no futher fussing and no worries about the glue letting go or the balls being too tight or too loose since the whisker will be springy so it's a one size fits all deal. If it doesn't work I'm going to look into the idea of reaming them out to accept Freak inserts. But if I have to ream them for inserts then the grooves and notches won't matter since they'll be sitting behind the insert.
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Old 01-29-2007, 12:24 AM   #12 (permalink)
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I see now, but does it bother you to do mods to these nice barrels that can't be undone?? I would me. a piece of masking tape will not leave any damage. If you do it post pics, lol.
enjoy,
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Old 01-29-2007, 04:26 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K.macocker View Post
I see now, but does it bother you to do mods to these nice barrels that can't be undone??
I say go for it.
Why have stuff kicking around that cannot be used?
If paint starts to become larger, the barrels should still be usable even if they're modded.

Would it be possible to install a Spyder/ Timmy nubbin in the thread area?
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Old 01-29-2007, 02:40 PM   #14 (permalink)
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....Would it be possible to install a Spyder/ Timmy nubbin in the thread area?
I don't think the wall is thick enough for a direct transplant but one option I'd considered was a Tippman Custom 98 sort of rubber "leaf" but cut to a different size and shape. But then I thought that dry rubber would pull on the ball and induce some spin moreso than a more slippery wire whisker.

meh.... options. There's more than one road to Rome so likely either would be fine.

Oh, I should have mentioned that before I cut into an actual barrel I'm going to try it in some aluminium tubing I've got first.....

I just need to find time to tear myself away from the stupid 'net and get into the shop!
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Old 01-30-2007, 12:27 AM   #15 (permalink)
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what I did for my reball gun.



works pretty good, hasn't broke paint and stops the roll outs. You can do a similar mod wit a cocker barrel.

Find out what the barrel orientation is when it is on the gun. Mark the barrel so that you can make sure this will be on the top when it is on the gun. The nubbin does create spin so try to make it back spin by putting it on the top of the barrel. If you are holding the barrel with the muzzle in your left hand and the threads in your right hand, then you want to do this just to the left of the actual threads on the barrel where the aluminum will be the thickest. Drill a small hole the size of the finger on the nubbin then use a small end mill bit to make a flat, round surface where the nubbin will sit. Put the nubbin in and screw in the barrel.
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Old 01-30-2007, 07:39 AM   #16 (permalink)
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that looks nice K_Obeastly. to put it right where the ball needs to stop on a cocker, you would have to go through the body and then through the barrel. You could put it on the barrel right outside the body and it would allow the ball to roll forward a bit and still prevent the roll out.

I wonder if you could drill a hole the size of a rubber nubbin tip through the barrel (where you want the stop to be of course). then use a milling bit or a flat drill bit the same size as the rubber nubbin head, and drill directly on top of the smaller hole you just drilled. then you could lay the nubbin in the hole and screw the barrel on. the inner body of the cocker would hold the nubbin in place. I don't have any nubbins laying around to hold against the thickness of a cocker barrel. but you would maybe have to modify the nubbin head thickness and maybe even the length..
don't kill me now, Just some thoughts that popped in my head just now, lol..
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Old 01-30-2007, 04:43 PM   #17 (permalink)
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that is pretty much what I was trying to express I was just too lazy to make and host pics lastnight. Even if you don't go for it, I may give it a try. I don't even have a sniper II anymore but we got enough kiddies wanting reball guns now it could be worth doing and charging for.

also the reballs tend to plump up after they have been shot a few times. After a few sessions they start to fit the barrels fairly good.
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Old 01-30-2007, 11:07 PM   #18 (permalink)
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There is a really thin wire nubbin on my Vector M1 blowback, and it wraps around the barrel in an odd way and is flush. It could be done, but youd need to cut a really nice neat narrow and shallow slot, and then make a wire work for it.

I think the boa O ring slot method is a good idea.
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Old 01-31-2007, 03:23 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
There is a really thin wire nubbin on my Vector M1 blowback, and it wraps around the barrel in an odd way and is flush. It could be done, but youd need to cut a really nice neat narrow and shallow slot, and then make a wire work for it.
I think that might have the same drawbacks as mentioned above

Quote:
As for the detentes, Automags fire from open bolt, so the detent is not protruding as the ball is fired. I don't know if this would have any adverse consequences when used on a cocker that fires from closed bolt.
I remember reading something about something used with the at85's a few years ago but I never found any pics to see what was going on. From what I read I did come up with an idea that may be almost what they did if not exactly what they did. It could be completely unrelated as well, I never found any pics of what they did so I cant say.
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Old 01-31-2007, 08:36 PM   #20 (permalink)
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A split sleeve like that may work well for some cases but you won't be able to use it for all of them. As for cockers I'd have to check to see if it's the end of the sleeve that you want to machine off that binds or the shoulder of the barrel on the front of the body. It's fairly important since the seating of that shoulder helps determine how the barrel aligns with the body.
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