Unregged CO2 with sniper II

grande · 02-23-2007, 09:22 AM

Ok, I bought a pump that came with a AGD Micro CA II stock and thought about using it on my sniper II.

What should be considered when using unregged CO2? I remember something about different valves being able to handle such pressures but it was too long ago and I cant remember anymore. The original valve it came with was a homemade turbo valve, enlargened for better flow or something. I know that with 12 grams my object is to try and get the maximum amount of shots out of them so stock valve should work best since it has a smaller air passage?

What about springs?
I have nelson springs and the ones that came with old cockers. I'd like the pump action to be smooth as possible and the old cocker spring makes it really heavy to load.

I appreciate all the help I can get

sniperfan · 02-23-2007, 01:17 PM

If you change it to the older Nelson spring kits (gold anodized, Pro-Team I think) they work well. The Sniper has kinda a nasty habit of not running down on Co2, but merely running out. One shot is decent, the next is weak, and the last one doesnt make it out of the barrel. try a light return spring, and go with the lightest hammer spring that shoots consistently.

Some other tips are to remove the pump handle return spring, make SURE the pump handle isnt rubbing on the barrel, remove the front and rear bolt o-ring (leave the middle one, and make sure to lube it with silicone lube)

Other things I've done to Snipers are:

Adjustable sear lug. Since youre giving up rounds per second, might as well have the sweetest trigger possible. This is done exactly like a cocker as long as it has the modern hammer.

Pump rod bumper. The idea is to keep the bolt from traveling any further than it has to. You can stack up rubber washers on the pump handle guide rod. Let the pump over travel about 1/8".

Contour you trigger; get rid of those ridges in the sniper II trigger, and make it have a "diamond" contour as viewed from the front. If you take the trigger out, clamp it gently in a vice with the finger pad facing you. Use strips of sand paper in a shoe-shine fashion to remove the ridges and break the sharp edges. The bottom and top of the trigger should be about 1/2 the width of the center, and be very smooth.

Trigger takeup and overtravel stops. (pivoting trigger only) A takeup adjustment is a 4/40 set screw that is in the top of the trigger area, next to the front grip frame screw. It bears on the top, frontmost portion of the pivoting trigger. When you adjust it out, you can take all the slack, or pretravel, out of your trigger. CAREFUL- if you take too much out, you can make the trigger unsafe, and prone to accidental discharge.

Overtavel stops are usually put in sniper grip frames at the bottom/back of the trigger guard, and can be from 10/32 down to 4/40 in size. Set them so the trigger breaks, free falls about the thickness of a piece of paper, the hits the stop.

Lube the trigger components with a *thin* application of slick-50 wheel bearing grease. That stuff is amazing. Its teflon grease.

I just noticed your in Finland, so substitute the appropriate metric threads. Most are smaller tham M-3.

grande · 02-23-2007, 04:15 PM

Thanks for the info.
I currently have a benchmark 45 frame on it that has the set screws.

It is adjusted so that the sear catches excactly when the bolt clears the breech. I haven't used the pump return spring since I got the marker.
Everything is smooth as butta, I was just conserned about the valve. Will those "plastic" valves work or do I need a bone stock valve to get the most out shots out of it? (not sure if the current one I have in is made by eclipse or not).

I understand the sprining balance is the key to good efficiency, if it has too strong main spring it pushes the valve to remain open too long.
However I do have a old unireg that could be used with it to lower the operating pressure, not sure what is best to get the most shots out of it so I asked you guys.

Railgun · 02-24-2007, 03:47 AM

I just went through this with my Sniper II.

I went to the hard valve spring in the kit and that made it so I needed to go with the hard hammer spring and screw in the IVG quite a ways to get the velocity right. I'm going to see if I can find some time before the pump day this weekend to change to the medium valve spring and stick with the hard hammer spring but hopefully it'll let me back off the IVG a lot to reduce the pump force needed. But in reality the amount needed now isn't that much. I notice the difference in the shop but when the adrenaline kicks in you wouldn't notice if some wiseass put the springs from your car in there. You'll just pump and pump and wonder why your arm is sore at the end of the day....

02-23-2007, 09:22 AM	#1 (permalink)
grande Seasoned Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Finland	Unregged CO2 with sniper II Ok, I bought a pump that came with a AGD Micro CA II stock and thought about using it on my sniper II. What should be considered when using unregged CO2? I remember something about different valves being able to handle such pressures but it was too long ago and I cant remember anymore. The original valve it came with was a homemade turbo valve, enlargened for better flow or something. I know that with 12 grams my object is to try and get the maximum amount of shots out of them so stock valve should work best since it has a smaller air passage? What about springs? I have nelson springs and the ones that came with old cockers. I'd like the pump action to be smooth as possible and the old cocker spring makes it really heavy to load. I appreciate all the help I can get __________________ "The best mode on a smarts parts gun is off."

02-23-2007, 04:15 PM	#3 (permalink)
grande Seasoned Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Finland	Thanks for the info. I currently have a benchmark 45 frame on it that has the set screws. It is adjusted so that the sear catches excactly when the bolt clears the breech. I haven't used the pump return spring since I got the marker. Everything is smooth as butta, I was just conserned about the valve. Will those "plastic" valves work or do I need a bone stock valve to get the most out shots out of it? (not sure if the current one I have in is made by eclipse or not). I understand the sprining balance is the key to good efficiency, if it has too strong main spring it pushes the valve to remain open too long. However I do have a old unireg that could be used with it to lower the operating pressure, not sure what is best to get the most shots out of it so I asked you guys. __________________ "The best mode on a smarts parts gun is off."

02-24-2007, 03:47 AM	#4 (permalink)
Railgun MCB Member Join Date: Oct 2006	I just went through this with my Sniper II. I went to the hard valve spring in the kit and that made it so I needed to go with the hard hammer spring and screw in the IVG quite a ways to get the velocity right. I'm going to see if I can find some time before the pump day this weekend to change to the medium valve spring and stick with the hard hammer spring but hopefully it'll let me back off the IVG a lot to reduce the pump force needed. But in reality the amount needed now isn't that much. I notice the difference in the shop but when the adrenaline kicks in you wouldn't notice if some wiseass put the springs from your car in there. You'll just pump and pump and wonder why your arm is sore at the end of the day.... __________________ Model airplanes are cool too!

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02-23-2007, 01:17 PM	#2 (permalink)
sniperfan Rec Poster Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Bay Area of CA	If you change it to the older Nelson spring kits (gold anodized, Pro-Team I think) they work well. The Sniper has kinda a nasty habit of not running down on Co2, but merely running out. One shot is decent, the next is weak, and the last one doesnt make it out of the barrel. try a light return spring, and go with the lightest hammer spring that shoots consistently. Some other tips are to remove the pump handle return spring, make SURE the pump handle isnt rubbing on the barrel, remove the front and rear bolt o-ring (leave the middle one, and make sure to lube it with silicone lube) Other things I've done to Snipers are: Adjustable sear lug. Since youre giving up rounds per second, might as well have the sweetest trigger possible. This is done exactly like a cocker as long as it has the modern hammer. Pump rod bumper. The idea is to keep the bolt from traveling any further than it has to. You can stack up rubber washers on the pump handle guide rod. Let the pump over travel about 1/8". Contour you trigger; get rid of those ridges in the sniper II trigger, and make it have a "diamond" contour as viewed from the front. If you take the trigger out, clamp it gently in a vice with the finger pad facing you. Use strips of sand paper in a shoe-shine fashion to remove the ridges and break the sharp edges. The bottom and top of the trigger should be about 1/2 the width of the center, and be very smooth. Trigger takeup and overtravel stops. (pivoting trigger only) A takeup adjustment is a 4/40 set screw that is in the top of the trigger area, next to the front grip frame screw. It bears on the top, frontmost portion of the pivoting trigger. When you adjust it out, you can take all the slack, or pretravel, out of your trigger. CAREFUL- if you take too much out, you can make the trigger unsafe, and prone to accidental discharge. Overtavel stops are usually put in sniper grip frames at the bottom/back of the trigger guard, and can be from 10/32 down to 4/40 in size. Set them so the trigger breaks, free falls about the thickness of a piece of paper, the hits the stop. Lube the trigger components with a thin application of slick-50 wheel bearing grease. That stuff is amazing. Its teflon grease. I just noticed your in Finland, so substitute the appropriate metric threads. Most are smaller tham M-3.