Paintball

[kidneythief]

Hoppes #9. You can get it anywhere and its cheap as hell.

-Jake

[Frontier_Bill]

I don't like petroleum based oils. CP, you're wrong. Petrol based oils DO in fact make O-rings swell. My P-68 wouldn't cock after a light oiling because the O-rings swelled so bad. I use a synthetic grease. Works good. Now, with crappily manufactured crap like Krapman... you can get away with crap based crap on a crap cracker. Sorry... long day. To rephrase that, you can get away with petrol based oils in most STBB's because they are sloppily manufactured and have loose tolerances, allowing for swelling of seals.

[Deus Machina]

Plus, not *all* O-rings are affected by petroleum-based lubes, and some lubes are worse than others.

Buna tends to be pretty weak as far as lubes go. Most other materials handle it reasonably well.

[aqua_scummm]

Older O-Rings can be affected by petroleum lubes, before newer plastics evolved that handled them better.

Doc's page had a write-up about it somewhere

[Walking_Target]

pretty much what CockerPunk said, but with a few exceptions. oils like 3-1 do contain solvents, so you want to be careful with rubber o-rings, and some urathane (lower quality) o-rings. that being said, i've used WD-40 in my Mokal Titan... the thing actually *likes* the stuff. If your marker uses Buna (nitrile) o-rings, you can use almost anything in it. those o-rings are made from a poly compound (nitrile) that is designed to resist solvents


i've found that for general maintenance, Slick Honey (obtained through a bicycle shop) is cheap and works well in pneumatics for Autocockers and any poppet valve, it tends to stay on valves better IMHO.

but by all means, B is right about Air Tool Oil. it's cheap and paintball makrers fall under the kinds of pressure applications it was designed for. not to mention is is designed to work no matter what.

[HP_Lovecraft]

Originally Posted by aqua_scummm

Older O-Rings can be affected by petroleum lubes, before newer plastics evolved that handled them better.

Its been my experience that older paintguns usually came with higher quality orings. Many modern paintguns suffer from the "cut every possible corner" syndrome.

nick

[Robertsr]

After all has been said and done, a 50-50 air tool oil and synthetic automatic transmission fluid is both the most easy on your o-rings (whether they be nylon or buna) AND the cheapest. I get 10 oz. of air tool oil for about the price of 4 oz. of household oil or 1 oz of "paintball oil".

Been using the mix or straight air tool oil for years with no troubles, issues, or complaints. One of my team members threw away his whole stock of KC "trouble free" after it left a film of crusty-something on his Tac-one internals, and switched over to air tool.

[Deadfall]

Wow. I've never had any issues with KC Trouble-Free. Of course, the bottle I just finished was one that I got when I first started playing in the mid-90's, so maybe they've changed the formula since then.

I always preferred it over air tool oil because it was slightly more viscous and coated better. I've found that air tool oil tends to "settle" on which ever side of the gun is facing down.

[kidneythief]

Ive seen everything from Graphite powder to WD-40 to veggie oil. But nothing beats the day I watched a guy take his brand new Blazer and clean the thing by pouring Gatorade down the breech. The he wiped it all down and proceeded to dry fire it...un-oiled. The smell of burnt anno and the look on Craig Palmers face was priceless.

-Jake

[incynr8]

i used to use Genny to clean barrels.