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Old 04-23-2007, 05:01 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Direction of F4 striker-spring guide-pin

My second F4 question of the day...

I know I asked this question somewhere and got the answer, but I have forgotten what the answer was . So, I am asking MCB again:

Which way should the F4 Illustrator striker-spring guide-pin face when you reassemble the marker? Toward the front of the marker or toward the back?
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Last edited by sdawg; 04-23-2007 at 05:23 PM.
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Old 04-23-2007, 07:11 PM   #2 (permalink)
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The guide pin should "face" the front of the F4. It should slide into the spring and the spring should in turn slide into the back of the hammer. The "head" of the pin is what sits back in the velocity adjuster.

Saw that the other thread got closed. The only remedy I could find for preventing chops on the F4 was a fast loader. I had whipped up a custom delrin anti-chop bolt, but that wasn't reliable and for reasons beyond my ability to comprehend, interferred with the guns ability to recock...
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Old 04-23-2007, 08:35 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I'm sorry I still don't understand...

When you slide the pin into the spring, the other end of the spring has a plastic bumper (or whatever you want to call it) on it.

Which end should be inserted into the striker and which end should be inserted into the velocity adjuster? The way you describe it, the guide-pin's head is against the velocity adjuster and the end of the spring with the plastic bumper is inside the striker.
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Last edited by sdawg; 04-23-2007 at 08:47 PM.
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Old 04-24-2007, 12:06 AM   #4 (permalink)
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the assembly should be as follows:

hammer - metal pin (head toward the hammer, leg inside the spring) - plastic bumper end of spring toward rear of gun infront of velocity adjuster.



I didn't see the other post but if you are having ball chopping problems:

F4's are famous for NOT chopping balls if everything is set up correctly.

1st- make sure your ball detent isn't too tense, if its too much, it will cut the balls, if too loose it will let the balls roll forward just enough to half feed a ball and the bolt will cut it. If necessary bend the wire a bit (carefully) at a time until you get the right tension. You should be able to drop a ball into the chamber and have it not fall out even if shaken back and forth, but light enough so that mimimal pressure will push it past.

2cd- depending on which bolt you have.. there may be a recocking pressure adjuster in the bolt (an allen headed screw inside the front end of the bolt) screw it out and it increases the amount of gas diverted for re-cock; screw it in and it lessens.... IF you have an adjustable bolt.. screw it all the way in and then out at least 2 full turns. This is the starting point to sweet spot the re-cock pressure. If not disregard this part.

Hope this helps.
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Old 04-24-2007, 12:15 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reaper_de_Grim View Post
the assembly should be as follows:
hammer - metal pin (head toward the hammer, leg inside the spring) - plastic bumper end of spring toward rear of gun infront of velocity adjuster.
Got it, thanks.

Quote:
F4's are famous for NOT chopping balls if everything is set up correctly.

1st- make sure your ball detent isn't too tense
I just got the detent cover off for the first time today, so I'll check it out. But I think that the problem was that I was shooting faster than my loader (I have a double trigger) and chopped a ball.

Also, I'm using pretty brittle paint, I wonder if the pressure is just too high and the hammer spring hits with too much force...?

Quote:
{2cd- depending on which bolt you have.. there may be a recocking pressure adjuster in the bolt
Heard about that, don't have it, wish I did.
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Old 04-24-2007, 10:21 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AGDRetro View Post
Saw that the other thread got closed. The only remedy I could find for preventing chops on the F4 was a fast loader. I had whipped up a custom delrin anti-chop bolt, but that wasn't reliable and for reasons beyond my ability to comprehend, interferred with the guns ability to recock...
AGDRetro: I guess I'll try a faster loader... hopefully my eVLution II will keep up.

How does does/would an anti-chop bolt work?
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