Here is a list of sub parts for the sterling in case of a jam.
valve guide pin- A sheridan pin non- peirceing type,cocker pin,VM-68 pin
barrels- Raptor barrels fitted to the proline/lada sterlings.Take about .200+- off the shoulder.You might have to take more or less. Start close to .200 and fitt it to your sterling.Take your time!! All the older sterlings are not built the same.
Frames- Don't get me wrong.But, I'm sorry that I'm not going to drop $100. for a frame.Yes this might take some time. But, I think it will get you going. It will require you drilling and tapping. You'll have to locate your sear pivot pin and drill it. And tapp your spacer bar lock down screw. I forgot my mics at work,so I'll post a up date on this.:hammer:
Springs- clipped spyder main springs for the main springs.Cocker valve springs for the valve springs. Or you can contact Mark. Or I have made a contact on spring kits @ Maddman springs.
What is the status of the madman springs?
I called craig a minute ago.Here's what I have.They'll sell to anyone 3 spyder main, 3 cocker valve springs. For $6.00 plus shipping.They said it would be too much if they had to use 2 differant main springs" proline-Arrow". This means you'll have to crop the main to fit either the arrow or proline model.
How do I know which one I have? ... what springs work?
Pretty much as much info on sterlings as you will need is found here. Covers most sterlings except for the newest ones.
Frame conversion from PBnation. Great information to have. Thanks krik-it. The best frame to use is the mag frame. You line them up and use a duplicating punch to mark the sear hole for drilling. no need for trigger hole,it will fit right in.Picture shows for cocker frame conversion.
A Dye single swing works as well. I am going to have one installed.
I done the mag convert on the project I'm working on right now.Just working on body milling right now.Bench mark model seems to look most stock.I don't mind not removeing the front screw.You can do all the up keep via rear screw.
Many older Sterlings have not detents, what can be really problem with his barrel and chamber internal diametres and modern, small-sized paint. Here are some advices and my experiences what could be useful for some Sterling users:
From my experiences Sterlings have to long chamber for absolute "ball-rollout" solution only with barrel back sitzing (or something like CCI detent rings). Because they have long chamber, you need make "paint to chamber" match. You mus fix the problem in chamber, because there where the barrel begins has the paintball already some speed and if will be the paint small and it will be necessarly use small diameter barrel, you can have problems with breaks and even if not, there will be consistency afected trought sliding the paint freely in the chamber. The breaks can be big problem here especially when the paint is not round. Sometimes the long chamber do not conduce problems, and custom made "CCI detent rings" have worked perfectly by me, but sometimes I have had big problems. I have solvet that once for all with this mod:
Use adjustable detent manufactured from nylon screw - simply drill hole to the chamber from from above, in the face of paintball, make threading and use nylon screw with rounded end. It is easy to make that, and its works perfectly. After supplementation of this screw, there are no problems.
For doublefeeding solution... Glen Palmer will put a cocker detent your Sterling for $20. But the anti-double feed detent can you make self with dremel and piece of wire, or it is even possible make self what Palmer does, only with drillpress and tap. I have used detents for Spyder Victor, because they are cheaper and they works as well.
Here are some pics:
I take it with the new version of sterlings out that we will have parts more available?
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