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|10-07-2012, 11:26 PM||#2 (permalink)|
Here is the best advice I can give you:
Instead of waisting $100s of dollars on buying the perfect barrel you can buy:
Freak bore a barrel
Buy the Empire kit (Which is just is the same as the Freak kit with a different name)
Shark Fin kit
Your bore issues will be taken care of with any of these. Plus if you buy the fronts, you can make the barrels different leangths. Smart money either way you go.
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|10-08-2012, 12:15 AM||#3 (permalink)|
Join Date: Mar 2012
To answer your question, you should use a .680-.682 barrel. That is the sweet spot where you will get your best air efficiency and shot consistency. Whatever paint you are using, try to underbore somewhere around .003-.005 smaller than your paint. .004 is probably optimal due to shell inconsistencies.
Google Punkworks Paintball, and you'll be able to find more information than your brain can handle.
|10-08-2012, 10:24 AM||#5 (permalink)|
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Brandon, FL
What I learned with my KP.
Buy two CP backs...a .679 and a .685. It'll cost you about $50 for both of them and a tip of whatever length you want.
At that point, you can shoot any paint you ever run across. Anything up and including .684 will shoot just fine out of the smaller back, and anything .685 and larger will shoot fine out of the bigger one.
The testing that Punkworks did a few years ago found that you can underbore up to .007 without any risk of breakage. So you have one back that covers the range from .679 to .686, and one back that covers from .685 to .692. Pretty doubtful that you'll ever end up having to use paint that's not in that range.
I found that, even when my paint was a perfect paint-to-barrel match with my .685 back, it still shoot straighter and more consistently with the .679 back. In my personal experience (not based on anything scientific), underboring gives better results than a perfect match.
|10-08-2012, 09:12 PM||#6 (permalink)|
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Buy 2 Lurker Eighenbarrels. One in .678, and the other in .684 and your good to go
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|10-08-2012, 09:33 PM||#7 (permalink)|
Also, if you have really fragile paint you might have to ease up on the underbore.
|10-08-2012, 09:41 PM||#8 (permalink)|
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Fascist Valley
I notice problems, regardless of what marker I'm using, when the paint is more than .005" larger than the barrel. Not always, but it seems at least 1/100 shots, when using rather brittle ("tournament grade") will break when I have underbored .007 or .008. With some rec brands that would seem to have a tougher shell I can get away with that without problems, but I don't even both any more. I stick to .005" rule these days as it works well enough and save a bit of headache
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|10-08-2012, 10:03 PM||#9 (permalink)|
If paint was 685, assuming no roll outs or partial roll outs, I would use my 684 freak insert or my 684 SM back.
CCM also makes a nice kit, I have a freak insert kit with a deadlywind barrel....shoots nicely.
I don't underbore any more than necessary to prevent roll outs.
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|10-08-2012, 10:17 PM||#10 (permalink)|
Here is what works for me - its not very scientific - but it works well for me.
I don't measure my balls (LOL). I just put them thru a Freak and see if I can blow it all the way thru - by mouth.
I have tried using a Freak that I can almost blow it all the way thru and found I lost accuracy. I guess I was squeezing them too much.
Keep in mind as the temperature changes so do the size of your balls - recently I had to upsize in the afternoon - this is due to a variety of factors - ball inconsistency, higher temperature, humidity etc.
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