Can we freak a unibody?
One of my guns is a really nice WWP Razorback III
It looks like this:
Now, it shoots pretty nicely, and is reasonably efficient, but because paintballs are no longer .68 caliber, I get a lot of roll-outs. I got to wondering about using a freak insert for the gun to modernize the barrel a little, help reduce roll-outs, and make the old marker a bit more efficient and accurate.
As I see it, I have two options.
Option "A" is to cut the barrel off and tread the stub for an autococker, and buy a complete freak set. This would be great if I didn't have an around-the-barrel pump handle.
Option "B" is to cut about 4" off the barrel. Bore the sub for inserts, and thread the end to accept freak fronts. (See Below). I lean towards this method since the Pump handle will still slide nicely over the "Barrle Back", the barrel will still be pretty close to straight on the gun, it will be stronger in the stressed areas, and the pump handle will cover the joint (just barely).
So, airsmiths out there, which way would you go? And any ideas on cost of the different methods? Or any other methods (other than "get a new gun" - that's lame, and you know it's lame, so don't shop at that mall).
Of course this is not the only 1" OD unibody Nelson out there, and there is the prospect of a very small amount of follow-on for whoever gets this right.
I've asked a few people but no one would do it. If you do find someone that will let me know.
The biggest issue is you can not clamp the end behind the feed neck, it tends to squish because its so thin.
In theory couldn't you just bore the barrel from the back of the body?
I'm assuming that the id of the body is larger than that of the barrel. The main inconvenience would be that you would have to disassemble the gun to change inserts but on a nelson that's not a huge deal. You could also window the barrel to make it easier to remove the inserts. This method would preserve both the aesthetics and functionality of the marker IMO
If you're going to these extremes to prevent rollouts, I'm thinking the traditional detent mods would be so much better...
I have a unibody phantom in the same situation. I've been thinking about the mod where you make three shallow cuts around the OD of the body and put an oring on it...with just enough of the rubber from the oring protruding into the ID of the barrel to hold the ball in place.
So... One problem with the unibodies is that they were done in multiple setups... The barrel is often slightly out of alignment with the back features. And sometimes even out of alignment with the OD. An intrepid machinist would need to bore 12 or so inches deep to get a freak insert into the barrel, and it may not even be aligned when finished.
Razorbacks are fine for autococker rethreading. Why would an around-the-barrel pump handle be a problem?
If you do have to cut off the barrel, use the stock Empire Trracer barrel. They have a MASSIVE OD around their back, and could easily be freaked.
i assume the body is 1" OD
cut the breech/barrel
make it cocker threaded
rethread the barrel
you'll lose 1.25" + sawcut/facing
i've done it before, but its not somethin im doin again :)
my tooling isnt long enough for freaking a unibody, i max out at 6", this would be closer to 10"
Because then that 1" internal diameter around-the-barrel pump handle WOULD have a problem!
Wow! Sudden rush of comments... Let's go one at a time:
BigOldSkool: Ahhhh... I did not think of that. Now the Rebline makes even more sense (modular marker)
Penaraol10: If it is bored from the back, the bolt won't seal. Or I would have to get holes bored in the sides of the inserts to allow the balls to feed.
Dr, Phunkpants: Not a bad idea, post a link fer me. But, wouldn't the o-rings get blown out of the body by the air-burst when I pull the trigger?
alpha343: Not a BIG problem, but if the new barrel is over 1.00" I will have to have it milled down, if it is smaller, I'll have to shim somehow.
Algea: Not a bad idea - the BT Trracer uses Auto-cocker threads.
SuperStanchy: Yes, OD is 1.00".
I think I may just have the barrel cut and have the body threaded for Auto-Cocker barrels.
Somebody! Quick! Measure the OD on your freak back (and front)!
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