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Old 12-18-2012, 07:43 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Ceramic barrel question

I have a Proline Sterling that has Sterling threads for the barrel. The problem I'm having is finding aftermarket barrels since no one makes this thread anymore. The Brass Eagle Raptor barrel has the same threads but I need to cut the barrel back 1/4". So my question is, I found a 14" J&J Ceramic barrel on ebay and I was wondering is the ceramic barrel capable of being cut back? If so what cutting implement (band saw, cut off saw, mill, etc.) do I use to cut it back?

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Old 12-18-2012, 08:44 AM   #2 (permalink)
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It's not ceramic, it's ceramic coated. I don't know the exact material, but it's basically a thin coating over a conventional aluminum barrel.

A hacksaw will cut it (though it'll dull the teeth a little) and a Dremel with a cut-off whell will work in a pinch too.

However, I tend to recommend against cutting plated aluminum barrels- nickel, chrome, ceramic, etc. Because once cut or chipped, the aluminum corrodes under the plating- this is seen pretty commonly on nickeled parts like grip frames and 'Cocker LPRs.

I mean, it'll work, the plating won't flake off immediately, and if kept clean (don't leave paint on it for a long time) will last for years. But eventually it's basically guaranteed to start flaking.

'Course, it's just an old Raptor barrel, and if it does flake it'll mostly be at the breech where it won't be seen while in use, so have at it.

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Old 12-18-2012, 09:48 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Just a thought, when cutting with a saw you may make the barrel sightly oval. Try using a pipe cutter like they use for copper pipe.
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Old 12-18-2012, 10:18 AM   #4 (permalink)
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saw and pipe cutter are not what you need. The shoulder of the barrel needs to be turned down, probably best on a lathe, 1/4". This allows the barrel to thread all the way in. Depending the on the particular barrel you may need to take off a thread or two as well to allow it to go all the way in.

I had an old 12" gray J&J turned down and never had a problem with it. Didn't use it tons, but it worked fine. Kept it clean and don't remember it having any flaking before I sold it. I had it for about 7 yrs. Might have had a tiny spot right at the shoulder, but if so then that was it.
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Old 12-18-2012, 01:59 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by James_Blond View Post
saw and pipe cutter are not what you need. The shoulder of the barrel needs to be turned down, probably best on a lathe, 1/4". This allows the barrel to thread all the way in. Depending the on the particular barrel you may need to take off a thread or two as well to allow it to go all the way in.
James, I've seen you in the Sterling forum before, and thats where I found the Raptor Barrel need to be cut by 1/4". I misunderstood (in my own mind) when it was said it needed to be cut down a 1/4", I thought that was in length not in Outside Diameter.
I appricate the explanition as to where the 1/4" needs to be removed from.

Thanks for all the input from everybody.
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Old 12-18-2012, 02:05 PM   #6 (permalink)
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From above the threads. The shoulder between the threads and the OD of the marker needs to be widened.
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Old 12-19-2012, 07:05 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by JaKaL View Post
From above the threads. The shoulder between the threads and the OD of the marker needs to be widened.
I'm not quite sure what you mean by "The shoulder between the threads and the OD of the marker needs to be widened."

Can you explain it a little more please?
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Old 12-19-2012, 07:23 PM   #8 (permalink)
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The gap between the threads and where the barrel meets the marker. ABOVE the threads, away from the breech end.

GUN ==\\\\ =============

Where the space is in the above crude diagram
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Old 12-19-2012, 07:24 PM   #9 (permalink)
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You'd essentially be expanding that space like this:


GUN ==\\\\... ================

Get it?
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Old 12-20-2012, 07:15 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JaKaL View Post
You'd essentially be expanding that space like this:


GUN ==\\\\... ================

Get it?
Yes, I get it now.....
Thanks
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