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Old 09-20-2007, 08:48 AM   #1 (permalink)
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What's a "rental" valve on a Mag?

Hey all,

I'm shopping for a dirt cheap automag to try one out and I'm seeing a few for sale with "rental valve with matching #'s" in the ads.

What's the deal with a rental valve?

When they say matching numbers do they mean the serial numbers on the valve and marker match or is it on the two halves of the valve?

I'm a Mag idiot so please help me out.
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Old 09-20-2007, 08:53 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Similar to classic valves, but not 100% compatible.
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Old 09-20-2007, 09:39 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Rental valves are restricted in velocity to prevent dangerous spikes on CO2. Also they aren't compatible w/the level 10 bolt.
I believe the velocity restriction is ~280FPS but don't quote me on that.

Matching serial numbers mean front & back of the valve match.
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Old 09-20-2007, 11:00 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Mine w/ a rental valve will not allow me to shoot higher then 260... If I was to try to adjust for anything higher, it would leak out the back.
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Old 09-20-2007, 01:09 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Mine w/ a rental valve will not allow me to shoot higher then 260... If I was to try to adjust for anything higher, it would leak out the back.
A level ten reg piston has a higher vent pressure - that might help you a bit.
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Old 09-20-2007, 02:06 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Mr. Furious View Post
Hey all,

I'm shopping for a dirt cheap automag to try one out and I'm seeing a few for sale with "rental valve with matching #'s" in the ads.

What's the deal with a rental valve?

When they say matching numbers do they mean the serial numbers on the valve and marker match or is it on the two halves of the valve?

I'm a Mag idiot so please help me out.
Rentals have a small restriction in the power tube. It can easily be drilled out to use a level x kit. Other than that the valve is 100% compatible with other classic valves. The twist lock pin may not allow the barrel to be removed on a rental, but that is easily changed out. I have drilled out the power tube many times, start small and work your way up almost to the same size as the power tubes id. Matching numbers just means that both body halves were originally mated togther, and belong togther. Some valves may have been pt togther from parts, and the lasering doesnt match, but they should work fine.

Shane-O
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Old 09-20-2007, 08:04 PM   #7 (permalink)
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So it would be possible to upgrade the valve to a regular one?

Would the whole valve have to come out or just one half or the other?

How much is a valve nowadays compared to just buying a whole basic marker?

Thanks all!
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Old 09-20-2007, 10:04 PM   #8 (permalink)
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So it would be possible to upgrade the valve to a regular one?

Would the whole valve have to come out or just one half or the other?

How much is a valve nowadays compared to just buying a whole basic marker?

Thanks all!
The whole valve comes out of the body, then you will have to completely disassemble the valve to keep shavings out of it. Drilling it out is cheap and easy, no need to buy another valve, it will work fine. Classic valves go for $45 or so. Remove the valve, slide the bolt off the front. Unscrew the power tube tip and remove the parts inside noting the order the come out in. Look down the power tube, you will see a sorta wall with a hole in it. You need to enlarge the hole, but still leave a lip so the power tube spacer has something to sit on. Make sense?
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