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Old 03-23-2013, 08:58 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Mapp Gas works better than Propane.
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Old 03-25-2013, 07:58 PM   #12 (permalink)
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mac3kuby, if you don't mind posting pics of the procedure and results, I'd be very interested.

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lol. They talks funny up in P-A
Yunz are jus' jealous. Now go back to "Lan-caster" or whatever ya call it in Kalifornia. :P
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Old 03-25-2013, 08:53 PM   #13 (permalink)
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The method I use for "de-feedtubing" a PGP/anything else...

Strip the marker of *all* parts... Bolt, hammer, springs, screws, and *ESPECIALLY* the valve. If it is a cartridge valve, it is easy. If it is a solder in, you will need a tool.

Clamp marker, such that the feed tube is on top, and unsupported by the clamping system.

Locate you favorite torch. I use propane. MAPP burns hotter and is more expensive. Some people prefer one over the other.

Heat the *inside* of the feed tube. This will concentrate the heat and do less damage to the temper on the brass barrel (You will not likely anneal it, unless you reach 1000*f and keep it there for a few minutes).

At some point, the feed tube will simply lift away from the body with a pair of pliers.

Use a paper towel, folded over a bunch of times to protect your hand, to wipe the excess solder from the top of the barrel.

Obviously all the normal common sense stuff applies... Fire is hot. Hot metal looks the same as cold metal until you reach 1000*f. Work someplace with fire extinguishers. No open toed shoes... You get the idea.

Enjoy.

Ty
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Old 03-25-2013, 09:01 PM   #14 (permalink)
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No open toed shoes...
Especially this.... even the smallest gob of molten solder stings like all get out when it hits your foot.


Don't ask how I know.

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Old 03-25-2013, 09:08 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Welding spatter in the ear canal is awesome to watch! The boss comes out from under a truck like he is on fire... Oh... Wait... He was

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Old 04-17-2013, 04:20 PM   #16 (permalink)
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I worked in A/C and still hi\ave my torches. To re attach the tube I'd recomend either 15% or 40% silver solder Very strong but you gotta have a good torch and practice before you start a finish piece. Good luck. Brass is copper based but works alittle different. You might also look for a local A/C contractor and see if they could do a nice smooth re-solder for you.
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Old 04-17-2013, 06:21 PM   #17 (permalink)
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I would say DO NOT use mapp gas. MAPP is a product designed for cutting steel.
That high of a temp is unneccesary.
Sure it does the job faster, but it reaches a temperature that not only melts the solder but anneals the brass.

I have at least one example of this, where the brass changes color from exposure to too high a temp.

In working metal, things like annealling, hardening or tempering are based on the color of the metal.
Similar to Blueing on steel rifle barrels, heat can change the molecular structure of metals.

Not a big deal in paintball, we don't generally deal with rocket science. And if the brass is not normalized then a paint job will hide it.

But using mapp for solder is not shooting fish in a barrel ~ It's dropping a tactical nuke on a bucket of carp.

(BTW - I've worked building pipe organs, they solder 32 foot seams on the pipes using only a furnace-heated hand-held iron. No gas, no electric.
So while I know this kind of work can be done without resorting to gas torches at all, that does not mean I would try this with a soldering iron
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Old 04-17-2013, 06:52 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Back in the stone age of Paintball I did literally HUNDREDS of direct feed conversions to Sheridans, all of which required the removal of the feed tube.

I never once used a torch of any type for removal.

I would put a new blade into my Stanley utility knife and repeatedly score the solder between the tubes until the tubes seperated.

Sure, it took longer, but cleaning off the old solder was easier.
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Old 04-18-2013, 07:34 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Pyrate Jim View Post
I would say DO NOT use mapp gas. MAPP is a product designed for cutting steel.
That high of a temp is unneccesary.
Sure it does the job faster, but it reaches a temperature that not only melts the solder but anneals the brass.

I have at least one example of this, where the brass changes color from exposure to too high a temp.

In working metal, things like annealling, hardening or tempering are based on the color of the metal.
Similar to Blueing on steel rifle barrels, heat can change the molecular structure of metals.

Not a big deal in paintball, we don't generally deal with rocket science. And if the brass is not normalized then a paint job will hide it.

But using mapp for solder is not shooting fish in a barrel ~ It's dropping a tactical nuke on a bucket of carp.

(BTW - I've worked building pipe organs, they solder 32 foot seams on the pipes using only a furnace-heated hand-held iron. No gas, no electric.
So while I know this kind of work can be done without resorting to gas torches at all, that does not mean I would try this with a soldering iron
MAPP gas doesn't burn THAT hot. At least not at the pressures they come bottled in at Home Depot. MAPP gas will be perfectly fine. I'd recommend it for this project, though propane will do just as well.

Whomever recommended acetylene, that's completely unnecessary. The guy isn't brazing. That kind of heat is unneeded, not to mention expensive and hard to control if he's any sort of novice.

One thing everybody has forgotten to mention, if you plan on soldering anything back onto the PGP, don't forget flux. The solder WILL NOT stick without flux. Also make sure you lightly sand the areas you will be soldering. Failure to do that will cause the solder not to stick.
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