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Old 03-03-2014, 07:35 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Pump build HPR pressure

Hey guys!
Just finished putting putting the parts together for my pump project and all seems well.
I'll list the relevant parts to my question: CCM internals and Violent SL3 regulator. Both pieces are new.

Anyway, I've sweetspotted the SL3 3-4 times now and it seems to peak at around 225-240psi. I've confirmed with a reg tester. The velocity was measured at around 270fps and have been fairly consistent. I turned the IVG and additional 1 turn in (3 turns in from flush) and I am getting 280fps now.
Just today, I have swapped the HPR with a Bob Long 360 with same results (around 220fps @ 275psi, around 280 @225psi).

According to the stickies, the HPR pressure should be set around 300psi with the IVG at 2 turns in from flush. Would it be detrimental to keep the pressure in my pump @ 225psi?

Other than that, I just have to play with the trigger set screw for a light pull and eliminate the farting when I press the trigger a certain way.

Thanks!

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Old 03-03-2014, 07:50 PM   #2 (permalink)
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i beleive that is fine..as long as u sweet spotted it the correct method
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Old 03-03-2014, 07:52 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Old 03-03-2014, 11:16 PM   #4 (permalink)
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What gauge are you using for the reg tester? Is it glycerin filled?

A fellow pumper and I both have reg testers with different gauges. His seems to read 40 PSI higher than the actual pressure (not glycerin filled). It sounds like that may be the case with yours also. Like others said, as long as it is sweet-spotted, that is all that matters.
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Old 03-04-2014, 12:54 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Thanks so much guys!

The gauge is just a regular one. Its 0-300 that I pulled from an ion LOL and put on a spare ASA.


That's a relief...was just a bit puzzled why it was achieving peak velocity at 225psi instead of the recommended 300psi. Could it be the combination if the valve and main springs as well?
Right now it has the ccm springs that came in the kit. I may think about experimenting with lighter springs for a lighter pull....but not for a while.
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Old 03-04-2014, 08:18 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I believe some gauges are approximate, as I've had 2 gauges give me different readings by 20-50 psi on the same reg. There's a possibility your actual pressure might be a bit higher than the gauge indicates.

I was also able to achieve peak velocity at lower psi by underboring and using and open faced bolt vs a venturi bolt.
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Old 03-04-2014, 10:20 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Gauges, just about every gauge sold for paintball use are not actually gauges. They are indicators, meaning they are an approximate reading. Liquid or Glycerin filled gauges are not necessarily more or less accurate and they are made more vibration resistance, so you can get a solid reading on something like a running engine. A liquid filled gauge will also not show you quickness or recharge of your reg very well. As to the OP question, the pressure reading is not important other than resetting your reg after repair or rebuilding. If you sweet spot it correctly your golden. If it isnt efficient then you know you need to change your springs.
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Old 03-04-2014, 11:02 PM   #8 (permalink)
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the operating pressure is more dependent on your spring combo and valve than anything. 300-350 is to get people in the general ball park.
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Old 03-05-2014, 12:03 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Thanks again for the input, very much appreciated.
Have been thinking about the components and their role again.
Might leave springs in there right now at least until aftet 5-10 cases to see efficiency and consistency.
Changing spring combo for lighter pull...leading to less time open for valve -> higher pressure on HPR.
Am I correct on this? The springs act like the dwell on electros?

I'll probably have to wait till summertime to even have time to experiment with the valve and main springs and preference.
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Old 03-06-2014, 09:15 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by seriouslysilly View Post
Thanks again for the input, very much appreciated.
Have been thinking about the components and their role again.
Might leave springs in there right now at least until aftet 5-10 cases to see efficiency and consistency.
Changing spring combo for lighter pull...leading to less time open for valve -> higher pressure on HPR.
Am I correct on this? The springs act like the dwell on electros?

I'll probably have to wait till summertime to even have time to experiment with the valve and main springs and preference.
Sort of, but I think its more complicated than that. Lighter springs mean the hammer won't travel as fast and will deliver less force on the valve. Since the valve is a poppet valve with HPR pressure and valve spring on the one side, too light of a hammer spring (or too high of an HPR pressure) and you won't be able to deliver enough force to open the valve enough. Too heavy of a hammer spring and low HPR pressure would result in too long of a "dwell", so lighter springs were often associated with lowering pressure, not raising it. Its more of a balancing act than dwell is, which is why people selling off old cocker part lots often have tons of springs in there, its a combination of the valve spring and the hammer spring.

This is all from memory dating back several years and may be incorrect, feel free to correct me if I'm wrong!

Last edited by bizzarODog; 03-06-2014 at 09:19 PM.
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