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Old 03-25-2014, 04:49 PM   #11 (permalink)
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was it cold out today and you use co2? the new drive springs will help, probably its been worn out. the production of the Prolite stopped about 98/99, so those guns are closing in on their "prom". you can also warm up the co2(room temp is fine) to get the velocity up.
It was about 40 degrees here in illinois when I was playing, so it wasnt that cold but not that warm either.

There wasn't much of a velocity difference between the co2 and hpa so it doesnt seem like it should matter though.
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Old 03-25-2014, 05:15 PM   #12 (permalink)
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One often forgotten part that can affect velocity and recocking on those old Tippmanns is the valve stop.

The valves on those have two cup seals, one on each end. The valve literally gets sandwiched between the power tube and the hammer, pushing the valve slightly forward and opening both ends. The valve stop limits the forward travel and how much the front of the valve opens (the end that shoots the ball). A missing valve stop will give you plenty of velocity, but the gun might not recock. Too thick of valve stop (from a build up of rust, crud, broken paint, etc, or someone improvising with a random piece of scrap metal that's too thick) will limit velocity but give it a bit more recock force.

I have a pro-lite in my shed right now with too thick of valve stop (yep, scrap metal) that recocks all day long on HPA, but chrono's around 200.
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Old 03-26-2014, 02:28 AM   #13 (permalink)
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It was about 40 degrees here in illinois when I was playing, so it wasnt that cold but not that warm either.

There wasn't much of a velocity difference between the co2 and hpa so it doesnt seem like it should matter though.
there's your answer. if the gas used doesn't effect velocity then it must be what's running it, i.e. the drive spring.

replace it and you will be fine.
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Old 03-26-2014, 10:33 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Also, be careful when taking these apart that you don't lose a little piece called the Valve Stop. it's a rectangular metal bit that holds the valve in place and is really easy to forget about. But without it your valve will move around inside the body.

http://paintball.tippmannparts.com/d...%20Diagram.pdf
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Old 03-26-2014, 10:58 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Also, be careful when taking these apart that you don't lose a little piece called the Valve Stop. it's a rectangular metal bit that holds the valve in place and is really easy to forget about. But without it your valve will move around inside the body.

http://paintball.tippmannparts.com/d...%20Diagram.pdf
haha funny you should say that, even though I was trying to pay attention to see the valve stop I never found it when taking the gun apart. I did notice that when I put the velocity screw back in though, that it wiggled around a lot. I guess I will be searching the living room floor for a small metal rectangle when I get home from work.
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Old 03-26-2014, 12:06 PM   #16 (permalink)
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haha funny you should say that, even though I was trying to pay attention to see the valve stop I never found it when taking the gun apart. I did notice that when I put the velocity screw back in though, that it wiggled around a lot. I guess I will be searching the living room floor for a small metal rectangle when I get home from work.
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Old 03-26-2014, 07:06 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Well I was going to steal the valve stop from the pro lite to put use in the pro am but this is what the valve from my pro am looks like, which is different from the other pictures and diagrams because it seems it to be missing the notch for the valve stop.

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Old 03-27-2014, 09:32 PM   #18 (permalink)
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You have a old one there. What is the Serial # on that pro-am.
I have a thread about those some where, let me look.


here:
Pro-am bodies

In that thread I mention this early type of pro-am and show some pictures of the internals compared to a pro-lite.
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