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Old 05-06-2014, 06:22 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Cunha View Post
Vital is correct. The OP mentions that the gun looks like this with the hammer all the way back. You will need to slot the hammer deeper, so the sled can move further back before bottoming out the hammer on the IVG or whatever.

To confirm this you can just take the cocking rod off completely and then bring the sled back as far as it will go. If the bolt is still failing to clear the breech, then you need to slot the hammer deeper.

This is assuming the bolt and sled are made correctly in the first place. the bolt could just be too long.
How do I do this, I'm not sure I follow sorry. You mean machine the slot to be longer?
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Old 05-06-2014, 06:27 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Cunha View Post
Vital is correct. The OP mentions that the gun looks like this with the hammer all the way back. You will need to slot the hammer deeper, so the sled can move further back before bottoming out the hammer on the IVG or whatever.

To confirm this you can just take the cocking rod off completely and then bring the sled back as far as it will go. If the bolt is still failing to clear the breech, then you need to slot the hammer deeper.

This is assuming the bolt and sled are made correctly in the first place. the bolt could just be too long.
No, the bolt can definitely clear the breach when the hammer is pulled back all the way. Right now the cocking point has the bolt exposed as per the photo I attached.
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Old 05-06-2014, 06:29 PM   #13 (permalink)
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if this really is a jackal I hope your not going at this thing with a dermel. I will fix this pretty cheap if you don't have the proper equipment.
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Some people are penny wise, and dollar foolish.

Last edited by Vitalsilence; 05-06-2014 at 06:44 PM.
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Old 05-06-2014, 06:30 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Some people are penny wise, and dollar foolish.

Last edited by Vitalsilence; 05-06-2014 at 06:46 PM.
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Old 05-06-2014, 06:34 PM   #15 (permalink)
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and if i thread the rod out of the sled any more, therood hits the back block.
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Old 05-07-2014, 03:34 AM   #16 (permalink)
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get pics of the complete body with the bolt in the forward position and the back position from the Ferber side. your pump arm length will also determine how far back the sled will travel back. you also need to measure the cut on the body and slot to determine if they use the right spec for the sled, bolt and hammer to this body.
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Old 05-13-2014, 12:46 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Then it does sound like your pump rod is just threaded into the back block too far, or is just too short (if you can't back it up more)
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Old 05-13-2014, 12:54 AM   #18 (permalink)
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It's just an 1/8'' showing, I guess that's ok for now. Vital, there's no way in hell I would ruin such a prime gun with a dremel tool. This will one day soon be the nicest, mechanical half block to ever exist...

Once it's running nicely I will worry about the bolt showing a little, from what I have gathered, it really isn't that big of a deal when the markers not gassed up. Will post pics tomorrow It's just annoying that I'm on an iPad. Finally got the marker cycling tonight, was pretty pumped.

Still to come: No rise feedneck, ccm fittings, fresh ano.


Edit: Thanks for the help so far everyone, just got bback innto paintball after years and years, and this is also my first experience with an autococker. Bear (sp?) with me!
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Old 05-13-2014, 06:44 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Be careful if there is too much bolt in the breach at the cock point even if it clears at the end of the stroke it will be very easy to short stroke and chop paint empire found this out with the sniper
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Old 05-13-2014, 08:01 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Ok thanks for the tip. I'll see once everything is running smooth what can be done about that.
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