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Old 05-27-2014, 09:45 AM   #11 (permalink)
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but to me the armature pin looks shorter than the (what i remembered) the old e grips to look like.......
Grab a measurement when you get it apart, and I'll measure the one in mine tonight.
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Old 05-29-2014, 12:16 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Sorry bout that, my pin is 2.9" (just a hair shy of 2-29/32" if ya don't have digital calipers). Figure anything out?
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Old 05-29-2014, 12:56 AM   #13 (permalink)
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capacitor issue maybe? It stores up power to provide a stronger pulse to the noid and they do go bad.
Try replacing the capacitor, install it correctly (they have positive and negative leads, don't mix them up).
The negative lead is marked by a stripe down the side of the cap. Rubycon, Panasonic or Nichicon capacitor rated for 105 degrees C.
Radio Shack will work in a pinch.

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Old 05-30-2014, 04:05 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I think I had this problem too, the noid is sticking.

All I did was make a thin plastic washer out of a bottle to keep it from getting lodged.

Quoting myself but:
If the noid is sticking it still clicks but it doesn't return which would explain why it doesn't recock itself.
It's hard to notice because when you take the marker apart it separates.
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Old 05-30-2014, 05:04 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quoting myself but:
If the noid is sticking it still clicks but it doesn't return which would explain why it doesn't recock itself.
It's hard to notice because when you take the marker apart it separates.

i am am pretty sure its not the noid i can here the rod hitting the sear, and if i take the hammer out i can fell the sear being hit, maybe it is the capacitor? i am using an energizer battery (i heard some time back that some boards only like certain brands....was it 9.3V? or was i smoking crack?) its either the hammer holding the bolt open or there is not enough power to trip the sear or both....once that is sorted i will look at the recocking issue.....gah 2 markers in bits on my work bench, still cant find why the FA just wouldn't stop burping replaced the body oring i guess 20+ year old orings might be dodgy.
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Old 05-31-2014, 11:40 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Sorry bout that, my pin is 2.9" (just a hair shy of 2-29/32" if ya don't have digital calipers). Figure anything out?

73mm (sorry metric here) and if i reading it right 2.9" so that seems ok, i lubed the sear, loosed off all the screws and made a shim for the nod....well it trips, now to get it recocking, it has a new hammer o ring, again thoughts guys? my tank was right on 1k so maybe low air?
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Old 06-01-2014, 11:56 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Once I had mine tripping reliably, I found that the sear spring was TOO light, which is why it wouldn't recock... 1k should be just enough, they usually shoot down to 800psi... Still using the ZKH? How's the FPS? Techt recommended a stiffer spring for it, but mine shot hot without a softer hammer spring. Too hard and I could see that causing recocking issues...
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Old 06-01-2014, 05:27 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Once I had mine tripping reliably, I found that the sear spring was TOO light, which is why it wouldn't recock... 1k should be just enough, they usually shoot down to 800psi... Still using the ZKH? How's the FPS? Techt recommended a stiffer spring for it, but mine shot hot without a softer hammer spring. Too hard and I could see that causing recocking issues...

sorry zkh? I am wondering if the valve train might be causing drag on the front bolt, will need to check that today....gahhh oj well at least there seems to be some progress. thinking i might just put a whole new plastic front end
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Old 06-02-2014, 02:02 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Zero kick hammer (zkh, sorry was just typing lazy).
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