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Old 08-22-2006, 04:12 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Sounds like a great idea. The lock balls don't really work because of the blowback, anyways.
Hmm... are you sure that you have in mind the right lock-balls? I've been thinking on these small ones:

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Old 08-22-2006, 04:42 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Dude that thing is beat! no wonder you are getting blow through in your bolt!

Let me see if I have a spare that I can send you.... man you guys get some serious crap sent to you over there...sorry about that.

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Old 08-22-2006, 05:10 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Maybe simply putting a shorter full screw in front of the stock velocity screw and sealing it would work?

Anyways, about the valve...when you said to "round the channel bottom into R3," is R3 a bit size?
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Old 08-22-2006, 06:01 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Schmitti View Post
Dude that thing is beat! no wonder you are getting blow through in your bolt!

Let me see if I have a spare that I can send you.... man you guys get some serious crap sent to you over there...sorry about that.

Erik
That thing was brand new when I have hat problems with efficiency. This is only ilustration pics. Problem is not condition, but construction Im sure with that. Dry seal your bolt and you will see the difference.
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Old 08-22-2006, 06:15 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by russc View Post
Maybe simply putting a shorter full screw in front of the stock velocity screw and sealing it would work?

Anyways, about the valve...when you said to "round the channel bottom into R3," is R3 a bit size?
You can use full screw with full lenght and make small "storage" ball holes in them with dremel (they are visible on the past pic - the middle screw). But you will have still some problems with leaks trought the rear o-ring, because his slot is disturbed with the balls. I have dried that solution first, and here was big improvement, but still leaks. After removing of the balls and sealing of his holes, there was as much again more improvement. There is difference - velocity graph - of the sealed full screw with balls and without them:



The velocity is hight, before lowering in the course of tunning.

R3 means radius 3mm in Europe = ~0.24" diameter
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Old 08-22-2006, 07:50 PM   #16 (permalink)
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What? What's going on with all this lock-ball nonsense? Just take the velocity choke screw out, get a screw of the same size and teflon tape it into place where the velocity choke screw was. You'll get the same blowby-stopping effect.

I do agree with Schmitty though, work on the valve first.

*edit* Ah, I see what detente balls you are talking about. With a new screw teflon taped in, I don't think that there will be much blowby through those holes. The O-ring should prevent that anyway I'm pretty sure.
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Old 08-23-2006, 03:28 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Ah, I see what detente balls you are talking about. With a new screw teflon taped in, I don't think that there will be much blowby through those holes. The O-ring should prevent that anyway I'm pretty sure.
Even the best o-ring need good bearing/contact surface to seal correctly. The problem is simply that the holes in the bolt disturb the sealing effect of the rear o-ring. The losses here are perhaps not critical, but they are perceptible = it is better to fix them. Why not? It is not hard.
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Old 12-15-2006, 11:47 PM   #18 (permalink)
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I realize that this comes well after this thread has gone into the history books, but I did manage to solve my velocity issues. See that vert air adapter on the P-12 below? Whoever made that modification neglected to replace the cupseal assembly with one made for a CA gun instead of the 12gram setup with a piercing pin. I cut off the pin at its base, leaving a stub for a spring guide, and I get right around 300 fps now. If you have this mod, and have velocity issues, I suggest you take it out and shave it down. Phantom Power, I'm looking at you, bud. That gun deserves better.



This is what I had to cut it down to. Previously, the hammer could only open the valve 1/3 of the way.
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Old 12-16-2006, 12:31 AM   #19 (permalink)
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I took another approach. I left my 12 gram pierce pin on, but turned down the pin shaft on my lathe for better flow. Then I increased the porting size on the valve guide and turned down a bit of the valve stem at the base, again to increase the airflow through the valve. It seems to have worked quite well, and I have the ability to remove the C/A adapter and run on 12 grams if I choose to as well.

That gun is going to get quite the upgrade come the new year I think as well. Who knows, I may even have it complete by Pump Day 4.
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Old 12-16-2006, 01:13 AM   #20 (permalink)
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I just finished up on a homebrew porting job on my valve too. We'll see how it holds up. Actually...what effect do you think turning down the piercing pin would have on, say, a PGP?
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