changing air setup on a p68at

K_Obeastly · 08-30-2006, 09:50 PM

the beast in question

I am wanting to move my bottle off the back of my beast and go with a bottomline or stock mounted tank. It has the side mounted air passage/hose and I am wondering if anyone knows where to get fittings and air line to go from the side air hole to a bottom line. Are the banjo bolts/screws 10-32 or some other size?

Wycke · 08-30-2006, 10:25 PM

Way back when, I found a fitting with a male 10/32 thread and female 1/8" NPT somewhere online. I can't for the life of me remember the name of the company I got it from, but I know they exist. The other alternative is to have the valve drilled & tapped to take a 1/8" NPT fitting directly. From what I've heard, this can be a bit tricky due to the thinness of the material, but there are plenty out there like that, so it's possible. FWIW, PPS sells a 10/32 to microline fitting, but it's allegedly only good up to 300 psi. Unless you're going to regulate your input below that, I wouldn't try it.

-Chad

K_Obeastly · 08-31-2006, 03:54 PM

thank you

Clippard does sell some things that are usable in this application (and the 10-32 male to 1/8 NPT female adaptor as well) but a lot of their stuff will leave it pretty bulky.

Schmitti · 08-31-2006, 04:08 PM

You can drill and tap.. it's not too too thin..you have enough depth to get threading in there.. and you never want to crank on the fitting once soldered in, but you do have to be careful that you test fit the valve before you solder so that you don't thread the fitting in too far.

E

russc · 08-31-2006, 04:11 PM

Wouldn't it be simpler to just get an ASA to 1/8NPT reducer and run a line from there to the bottomline? Running the line off the side seems needlessly complex, and I doubt it would be more comfortable.

kidneythief · 08-31-2006, 08:37 PM

Its fairly easy to do the 1/8" NPT mod. The problem most people run into is that they tap too deep meaning that the fitting will be threaded to far into valve area. The fitting then binds the valve spring up. To correct this mistake most people will solder the fitting in place. The reason is they have to back the fitting out enough so that it wont bind but it then leaks.

To do this correctly you will have to buy a "shallow" tap that wont thread to deep. You can do it with a regular tap but from the sounds of it I wont recommend you try. Pipe threads are alot different than standard threading and most people dont get the compression/tapered concept.

There are many different ways to go about this and if you feel unconfortable doing this PM me.

-Jake

K_Obeastly · 09-01-2006, 10:11 PM

Quote:

Wouldn't it be simpler to just get an ASA to 1/8NPT reducer and run a line from there to the bottomline? Running the line off the side seems needlessly complex, and I doubt it would be more comfortable.

I have at least 3 of the reducers and I have thought about it. One thing that stops me is I want to put on an RVA. I know about the cooper-t rear ASA with RVA in it and I think PPS has one as well, I am just not wanting to go that route yet.

I am not sure where I want the air comming in to the gun yet. I was think about the bottom line but then I realized I may be able to mount a CCI vert air adaptor to the front of the trigger guard. I've also looked at just plugging the hole and having PPS install vert air but I really just haven't decided yet.

I was just hoping that somebody may know of some fittings that would make it go as easy as possible. I have found many fittings that would work but they are for lower pressures than what this is going to need.

PJ · 09-01-2006, 11:32 PM

PPS can tap your ASA for an RVA setup for (I think) $25-30. Contact the shop and get a quote from them.

08-30-2006, 09:50 PM	#1 (permalink)
K_Obeastly Post Whore Join Date: Jul 2006	changing air setup on a p68at the beast in question I am wanting to move my bottle off the back of my beast and go with a bottomline or stock mounted tank. It has the side mounted air passage/hose and I am wondering if anyone knows where to get fittings and air line to go from the side air hole to a bottom line. Are the banjo bolts/screws 10-32 or some other size? __________________ I b da fat one http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oERRPtEf8EM If loud pipes save lives imagine what bright pink helmets could do.

08-30-2006, 10:25 PM	#2 (permalink)
Wycke Supernatural Anaesthetist Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: The Plaines of Celestia	Way back when, I found a fitting with a male 10/32 thread and female 1/8" NPT somewhere online. I can't for the life of me remember the name of the company I got it from, but I know they exist. The other alternative is to have the valve drilled & tapped to take a 1/8" NPT fitting directly. From what I've heard, this can be a bit tricky due to the thinness of the material, but there are plenty out there like that, so it's possible. FWIW, PPS sells a 10/32 to microline fitting, but it's allegedly only good up to 300 psi. Unless you're going to regulate your input below that, I wouldn't try it. -Chad __________________ Porch Monkey 4 Life! s'ok...I'm takin' it back... My Feedback Thread

08-31-2006, 03:54 PM	#3 (permalink)
K_Obeastly Post Whore Join Date: Jul 2006	thank you Clippard does sell some things that are usable in this application (and the 10-32 male to 1/8 NPT female adaptor as well) but a lot of their stuff will leave it pretty bulky. __________________ I b da fat one http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oERRPtEf8EM If loud pipes save lives imagine what bright pink helmets could do.

08-31-2006, 08:37 PM	#6 (permalink)
kidneythief Lord humungus the Mod Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Spokane, WA	Its fairly easy to do the 1/8" NPT mod. The problem most people run into is that they tap too deep meaning that the fitting will be threaded to far into valve area. The fitting then binds the valve spring up. To correct this mistake most people will solder the fitting in place. The reason is they have to back the fitting out enough so that it wont bind but it then leaks. To do this correctly you will have to buy a "shallow" tap that wont thread to deep. You can do it with a regular tap but from the sounds of it I wont recommend you try. Pipe threads are alot different than standard threading and most people dont get the compression/tapered concept. There are many different ways to go about this and if you feel unconfortable doing this PM me. -Jake __________________ "I wish simply to be a decent person, yet I will always fear the retards" -Brian Hindt(geech) MCB Moderator Kidney Machine

09-01-2006, 11:32 PM	#8 (permalink)
PJ Retired from paintball Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Powell, TN	PPS can tap your ASA for an RVA setup for (I think) $25-30. Contact the shop and get a quote from them. __________________ Paul AIM: PJDarknight CPPA #1145 / PPIG #496 / LPPC #103 / POG #1047 / Team Rogue Cell #7 PJ's Gallery on MCB Feedback on MCB

08-31-2006, 04:08 PM	#4 (permalink)
Schmitti Red=Moderator Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Albany. NY	You can drill and tap.. it's not too too thin..you have enough depth to get threading in there.. and you never want to crank on the fitting once soldered in, but you do have to be careful that you test fit the valve before you solder so that you don't thread the fitting in too far. E

08-31-2006, 04:11 PM	#5 (permalink)
russc Wookie D*ck Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Vancouver, BC	Wouldn't it be simpler to just get an ASA to 1/8NPT reducer and run a line from there to the bottomline? Running the line off the side seems needlessly complex, and I doubt it would be more comfortable.

Thread Tools	Search this Thread
Show Printable Version Email this Page	Search this Thread: Advanced Search