Paintball

[evaunitr]

No, not that itch... the itch to get a new marker.

I have my A-5, which I'm begining to feel isn't the right fit for me, and my PGP which I'll never let go. I'd like to try getting an Automag, or an Autococker.

Here's my question; how does the A-5 compare to an autococker/mag in terms of accuracy, efficiency of air, and reliability/ease of repair?

I'm quite handy (I fix hematology analyzers, so working with complex machines isn't a stretch) and love a challenge when it comes to troubleshooting/optimizing, so I wouldn't be afraid to fix any problems with my potential buy. Also I love the sheer look of cockers and mags.

I play Woodsball primarily and prefer semi-style play, as in I have an e-trigger that has never seen any setting other than semi. How do the mags/cockers handle woods play?

Should I fight the urge? If not what is a good cocker/mag to start out on?

Sorry if this isn't a tech question, but it's one I thought I'd run by the community. Any help is appreciated and thanked.

[foldadoom]

hey which company? or brand do you work on (used to be a haematologist, now workin immunohaem)
Anyway a cocker is very efficent compared to an A5, the low hammer mass makes cockers a little more stable during the firing cycle (so that often = more accuracey) but once again paint to barrel match is the key, the only thing you will find hard is the switch from a short trigger to the comparativley long pull of the cocker (its not so much that the trigger is harder to use more that you must complete the trigger pull, otherwise you short stroke or miss cycle the gun) as for mags I have had very little to do with them since I was offered the level 4-5 (if put me right off them)

Cheers G

[P4p3Rc1iP]

I personally prefer the feel and look of a Cocker over a Mag. But both are about equal in performance, and should have no problem with "woods". Compared to a Tippmann, both feel like Mercedes' if the Tippmann was a Volkswagon. :P

As for guns to start with, I can't tell you about mags, since, like I said, I'm more of a Cocker guy.
For Cockers however, any Cocker could do, since they all basically operate the same. However, if you're just starting with them, I'd avoid the older models (Pre 2k) as well as the rarer and "different" ones, since they'll be usually much harder to find parts for. Also, since you said you have no problems with complex stuff, I wouldn't specifically advice a Trillogy, since they're a bit more simplified Cockers, with less to fiddle with (Which is good for some people, but it sounds like you can handle a normal cocker no-problem. They're not that complex anyway).

So anything 2k+ non-trillogy, non non-standard should be ok. They can be had for under $100 used (And sometimes even new if you look around). Anything else is really up to you!

[Zoo]

evaunitr, I was in your same position about a year ago. I had an A-5 and although it was a solid & reliable marker, it just didn't suit my needs. So I bought a used 68 Classic Automag. The A-5 only saw action one time after that (and that was because the field was using crappy paint, and I had a Palmer's brass barrel for only the A-5).

I have since bought and sold many other 'mags and have not looked back. To try and answer your questions:

Accuracy: Stating what's already been debated many times over, good paint to bore match will give you similar accuracy with both markers. Where the Automag really shines is the consistency of the valve. My old Classic valve will shoot +/- 3 fps with no "upgrades".

Air efficiency: Both the A-5 and the Automag are considered gas hogs. But I don't see this as a negative. Most places I play have all-day air, so keep the tank topped off and shoot away.

Reliability/ease of repair: Both markers are tanks when it comes to reliability. But the Automag wins ease of repair hands down. Since the regulator and valve separate from the marker body with one simple thumb screw, most leaks/problems can be resolved in a few minutes by replacing an o-ring or two.

A personal story on why I love my Classic Automag: I bought it from a guy that left it in his closet for almost 2 years without ever touching it. Took it home, oiled up the o-rings, aired it up and it shot perfectly with no leaks at all.

Hope this helps with your decision.

[Jordan]

Originally Posted by P4p3Rc1iP

For Cockers however, any Cocker could do, since they all basically operate the same. However, if you're just starting with them, I'd avoid the older models (Pre 2k) as well as the rarer and "different" ones, since they'll be usually much harder to find parts for.

A pre-2k is very easy to find parts for, as they all interchange, with the exception of the front block and screw - those are pre2K specific. Every other aftermarket upgrade will fit.

Jordan

[cockerpunk]

both the mag and cocker will be hands above your a5 in every aspect of performance. they will be smaller, lighter, faster, more effecent, just plane old better.

either are very well suited to woodsball.

[evaunitr]

Excellent info so far. All f may questions have been answered, even though they were broad. I love my A-5, don't get me wrong, but it just feel outclassed when I'm in the thick of it. I may see a Cocker in my future unless I can find a mag for a decent price.

Anybody interested in a used A-5?

hey which company? or brand do you work on (used to be a haematologist, now workin immunohaem)

I work for a 3rd party service firm that works on Hitachi and Olympus chemistry analyzers. We also service and refurbish them, as well as the Cell-Dyn line of hemotology analyzers. Oh we also work on a few benchtops like the Polychem from polymedco and Phadia Immunocap.

[Target]

One thing to consider is that 'Mags prefer HPA over CO2.

Cockers tend not to be as picky.

Mags do work well with CO2 when set up for it using xpansion chambers, anti-siphon etc.

Dan

[hank_k]

I ran an A5 for a year, and have recently picked up a mag.

I've found the mag to be surprisingly accurate, or at very least consistent. It's the only semi I've been able to effectively snapshoot one ball at a time with. They're very fussy though about getting any liquid into the valve, and will quickly start to either shoot HOT or slow down and stop cycling as o rings freeze up. I've found running a tank vertically is an easy way around having to worry about that, but a stabilizer would be ideal. The biggest thing to be aware of with getting a mag, used anyway, is that 99% of the time, you have to replace a seal somewhere or other, usually either a powertube oring, an on off oring or the regseat. So, when you get one if you get one, pick up parts kit from AGD for it and you can breath life into any mag. However, once you get any seals replaced, they're pretty much a trouble free marker .. just be careful if you take it apart after having had it aired up shortly beforehand, the valve likes to stay semi charged .......

[P4p3Rc1iP]

Originally Posted by Jordan

A pre-2k is very easy to find parts for, as they all interchange, with the exception of the front block and screw - those are pre2K specific. Every other aftermarket upgrade will fit.

Jordan

Well, that depends. You also have the different IVG's, bolts (Though that differs in 2k+ too), and some were, and others were not set for regged CO2/air.

But you're right, most parts are interchangeable.