Paintball

[melkson]

ok, I just got the LB sheridan body in today, and it's side tapped directly into the valve like I wanted. However I want to put a 1/8 npt fitting on the side, and it's not threaded for that.

I have a 1/8 npt tap, but do I need to do anything else regarding the valve (aside from removing it to do the work)?

[c6quad]

you shouldn't need to do anything else other than drilling the proper size hole fot the 1/8 npt tap. just make sure the fitting doesn't stick inside the valve chamber too far to hit the valve spring. i'd also solder the fitting too.

[kidneythief]

Get yourself a "R" drill bit, make sure to remove all the guts and DONT tap too deep. I always suggest that you tap through and check the fitting for fit. You need to keep in mind that NPT threads are tapered and need to be tapped to a specific depth.

I also recommend that you dont solder the fitting in(no offense c6). Most of the time folks will have nickle plated fittings which wont solder not to mention their lack of actual solder skills. A drop of loctite (or even better teflon tape) will seal the fitting and be less troublesome.

-Jake

[melkson]

thank you BOTH for the great advice.

This is going into a stock, and it SHOULD be pretty secure. I'll still teflon tape it for a good air seal.

[Mayvik]

Just out of curiosity, why are you re-tapping it? You should be able to find a 10-32 to 1/8 NPT adapters, or 10-32 adapters in a variety of different female ends (including macroline slipfit and microline barbs).

[melkson]

where can I get one of these adaptors, and what size is the current threading?

I don't have the original backbottle line, and plan to run a line to a mounting bracket.

I'm planning to slap a pivoting 90* macroline into the body. I have one with a really short threaded base (1/2 normal depth) but it's 1/8 npt.

[Schmitti]

Quick question... is it just the factory side tapping that uses the banjo screw and the goofy looking dumbell hard line?

I have to agree with c6... get a brass 1/8 NPT 90 fitting, drill the holw larger with a R machine bit and tap it for 1/8 NPT ... don't do any of the above with out first removing the valve guts... you will need a valve tool to do that.

Then test fit everything with the valve re-installed. get the fitting turned the way that you want it and make sure the valve fits okay... sometimes you can screw the fitting in too far and you won't get the valve to go back in. If this is the case, mark the fitting on the out side of the gun, remove the fitting and remove a thread from the end. Because of the taper, in order to get the fitting snug you may have had to screw it in so deep that you have interferance with the valve.

Once you ahve everything setup okay and the valve is out, use a torch and some silver solder and braze the fitting on the gun. While it probably won't go anywhere, you're best bet is to fix the fitting in place permanently.

E

[melkson]

yes, it originally used the banjo fitting. You don't recomend getting an adaptor?

[Mayvik]

Palmer's has 10-32 elbow fittings, Male-Female, and then you can use 10-32 male to compression fitting (preferred) or 10-32 male to microline barb, or if you REALLY want macroline (which may or may not be a good idea if you're running back bottle CO2) you can use 10-32 male to 1/4" slip fit fittings. Clippard or maybe mcmaster/smallparts may have some comparable fittings as well.

Drill and tap is a last resort. You're not just drilling through the body, you're also drilling into the valve chamber fitting, and you can pretty easily hork up your marker by drilling it wrong. Unless you have a really compelling reason to use 1/8" NPT, you're taking a big risk when you could just spend some $ on fittings.

[melkson]

again, thank you guys so much. this info is invaluable.