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Old 06-20-2008, 02:32 PM   #11 (permalink)
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With the phantom dropout there looks to be enough meat that you could cut off the changer housing and thread the remainder for bucket threads.

As to the trracer... yeah if you can find something that won't fall apart over time (some people suggest epoxy which could break apart and screw up the valve) I think you might be in luck.

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Old 06-20-2008, 02:51 PM   #12 (permalink)
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On my old (now pwpaintball's) aerostar assassinator, it has a dropout changer where the main body of the changer is basically a bucket changer with the dropout slot, the valve body is threaded for the changer's body, that's an idea for some of you guys to have a raw valve body machined to be a bucket changer with reverse ASA threading on the back?
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Old 06-20-2008, 03:11 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Yup seen those before. Those cuts had to be made after the valve was threaded so that you could get the dropout pointing down when it was unthreaded a couple of turns. The extra little detail counts!

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Old 06-20-2008, 03:36 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Both of my super-tuned 12 gram running nellys... read that as I actually took the time to figure out springs and power tubes instead of slapping them together

The Peregrine is running a full set of lapco guts fluted hammer, #6 power tube.. blue main spring, yellow valve spring (I need to get the right ones) Im getting 30 ish shots on it with the 31st being dead going nop where.

The Winston Repeater (lever action) Is better tunned and I get a full 40 shots on that gun before I need to change it.. Its running bore drop lapco guts no fluted hammer, yellow main spring red valve spring #6 power tube again.. and its just sipping on a 12 gram.
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Old 06-20-2008, 03:41 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I'm pretty sure part of the reason I get such a great shot count on my 007 is the late-model aluminum barrel extension. It puts another 5 inches or so on the gun.
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Old 06-20-2008, 05:38 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Fastest way to devolumize and increase valve spring tension is simply put a spyder cup seal on the other end of the valve spring.
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Old 06-20-2008, 07:33 PM   #17 (permalink)
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OT, let talk about volume next time, first lets solidify springs and hammers as an efficiency factor, then we can talk about volume.

later i would like to get into Power tube sizes!!!!
that was always the mysticism of old school paintball
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Old 06-20-2008, 07:45 PM   #18 (permalink)
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ok..theres a few ranges..

heavy stock hammers to superlightweight hammers

heavy hammers=more valve dwell

lightweight hammer=less valve dwell

spring kits, fine tuning tools to get FPS better.for Main springs; soft=less dwell, but can be less fps.
hard springs=more dwell, but can be dangerously high FPS

for valve springs, hard springs=less dwell/air allowed, faster recharge.

soft springs=valve open longer, slightly slower recharge, more air allowed.

now, on the topic of volume and powertube sizes, it depends on your air and paint.

you can have say, small powertube diameters (00?, 0 is smallest, 6 is largest) and it would affect how much air goes through to push the paintball out of the barrel. there are no RIGHT spring/hammer/powertube/volume combo for everyone..but everyone have their special combos
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Old 06-20-2008, 08:28 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Honestly, it's hard to separate hammer weight from spring strength, and often forgotten is gas pressure in the valve which acts as a closing force.



Lighter hammers result in more efficiency, that's about the end of the story. here's a good quote from Wiffle32 in a Custom Cockers debate on hammer weights:

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Since now that the valve has been opened, it must use its imparted energy to close the valve again. And since a more massive object will require more energy to move, the valve spring pushes the heavier hammer backward more slowly, increasing the dwell time of the valve and the velocity of the paintball as the cupseal is closing.
This excess dwell is generally thought to be useless as the ball is already traveling down the barrel. So why not make hammers insanely light? The limiting factor is keeping enough force available to get playable velocity and still be able to pump the damn thing. You can lighten your hammer all you want, but if you need to step on your gun like a crossbow to cock it, you may want to consider going heavier. Using a lighter valve spring is very much like using a heavier hammer.
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Old 06-20-2008, 08:44 PM   #20 (permalink)
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I always would think a lighter hammer(with its harder main spring tension) would make a longer dwell and a less efficient shot, maybe its just reducing hammer bounce so its more efficient?
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