Paintball

[simmy952]

Can someone tell me where I can find a rebuild kit for my friend's Spyder extra? I have been trying to find something and cannot. Post up a link or a site. Thanks.

[G0ofy]

what seems to be wrong with it? most of the internal orings( on mine at least) are all the same size as tank orings and spyder cupseal can usually be found for pretty cheap at your local proshop along with spring kits and other stuff

[Mayvik]

Need more info about what's wrong. Spring kits, cup seals, etc are readily available. Paintball, Skateboard, Airsoft, Apparel and Snowboard Gear at ActionVillage.com carries a pretty good assortment of Spyder parts, or you can just google what you're looking for in particular.

DoroSports.com - Where The Players Want To Shop! | Paintball | Skateboard | Airsoft Supplies has or will order factory parts for everything Kingman has made, but you will pay out the nose or other orifice. You can always try just calling Kingman, too. Most of the parts on the Xtra are interchangeable with any slim-body Spyder.

[Titus]

I havea bunch of spyder parts in stock. Pm me with what he needs.

[simmy952]

When you shoot the marker, it stutters and does not recock. I am not familiar with spyders. Soneone said that the seal on the hammer was bad and letting the gas escape that is need to recock. I want to do a rebuild on it. Thanks for the links and any other help is appreciated.

[G0ofy]

try taking out the hammer and changing the orings on that and see if that solves the problems

g0ofy

[Mayvik]

If it's the striker/hammer o-ring, you'll need a special one, since they are a bizarre size. It should be a pinkish-red color. Check with Titus, he should be able to get you a new one easily.

Stuttering can also be caused by a few other things:
- Input pressure too low: You don't have enough gas in your tank, your line between your tank and the vertical adapter where the air goes into the lower isn't big enough or is leaking. This is usually the cause on the field.
- Main spring too light/valve spring too heavy: hammer isn't propelled forward hard enough to knock the valve open for a long enough time to allow sufficient air back through the valve body to overcome main spring pressure and recock the gun.
- Air flow between valve and rear lower tube insufficient: When the valve is open, all the air is going straight up through the bolt and out the barrel, with not enough/none going back along the valve pin to recock the hammer.
- Finiky sear: Sear isn't catching on the hammer well when the hammer is returning on recock. This one is iffy because usually the gun will go full auto and not stutter until it can't fire anymore (hammer has made it far enough back to catch the sear, so it should be able to open the valve with the same force as if it was released by the trigger).
- Screwed up lower tube: You have some sort of burr or obstruction in the lower tube that' slowing down the striker and dissipating the energy from the air blowing through the valve
- No main spring guide: The little (black plastic) pin that sits in between the RVA and is busted or missing, causing the main spring to kink up and cause recocking issues.

Tear the entire gun down, clean it thoroughly, and lube it (there are plenty of YouTube vids on how to tear down, clean, and lube a Spyder). Check for bad o-rings. Try shooting again with a freshly filled tank (HPA filled to at least 800psi, or freshly filled CO2) and let us know if it's still happening.