Paintball

[LK-13]

i was actually thinking of a tube design where the launch tube and the
valve tube were in different locations on the gun, connected by a flexible line only.
this would let the gas vent in the launch tube as needed and the valve tube could even be run vertically inside the grip, or located in side a wood stock.
separating the tubes would eliminate any paint getting into your valve tube in the event of a break and the launch tube could actually be swapped out as a complete unit for different temperature environments, summer play vs. winter, paint sizes, and so on, having the whole launch tube set up with a different type of bolt and so on...
i better shut the hell up...
i just might be on to something here....

can someone kill the Gardner brothers, so that we can safely brain storm this stuff?

it's almost sounding like a good idea, but I'm not sure i have the know how to make it happen...

[Mayvik]

Originally Posted by LK-13

i was actually thinking of a tube design where the launch tube and the valve tube were in different locations on the gun, connected by a flexible line only.

Kinda sounds like a 3357 except the "tube" between the launch tube and the valve is short and rigid. Or in a gun with a bolt, like a STBB where the top and bottom tubes are separated, and instead of the bolt having a hole that leads to the valve, it has a hose that leads to the valve. Edit: which is exactly your point. Mayvik postwhoring ++

[LK-13]

I'm also thinking that if the top tube is going to be removed from the lower tube,
the gas will be allowed a further chance to expand. in such a case it would seem to follow that a high volume low pressure gas system would work better.
it would prevent the gas from becoming over expanded and velocity dropping off.

that is if I'm remembering what Glenn Palmer said about high and low pressure systems correctly.

[CamoDeafie]

So..$25 for 8.5" body plus the cutting fee or something? Hmm.

Bout the same as buying an ordinary spyder body that's already finished and milling that..

But this extrusion has no screw holes for trigger frame, nor does it have threading, correct? If so..this may give me an idea for a nelly...........................

Also, I think that's actually a pretty nifty idea on the ram operated bolt blowback hammer system...


EDIT: MUAHAHHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHHAahahahahhahahhaaaa aahhhhahhhhhhaaaahhhhhahahhhhahahhhAHHAHAHAHAHAHHA HAAH!!

nelspot's lower tube is exactly 8.0 inches length...an extra .5 will definitely benefit me.....how beefy is the merlin extrusion?

[Engus]

I dont think you pay the cutting fee if you get one of the 8" or 6' sizes, and its 8.05" not 8.5"

Originally Posted by CamoDeafie

So..$25 for 8.5" body plus the cutting fee or something? Hmm.

Bout the same as buying an ordinary spyder body that's already finished and milling that..

But this extrusion has no screw holes for trigger frame, nor does it have threading, correct? If so..this may give me an idea for a nelly...........................

Also, I think that's actually a pretty nifty idea on the ram operated bolt blowback hammer system...


EDIT: MUAHAHHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHHAahahahahhahahhaaaa aahhhhahhhhhhaaaahhhhhahahhhhahahhhAHHAHAHAHAHAHHA HAAH!!

nelspot's lower tube is exactly 8.0 inches length...an extra .5 will definitely benefit me.....how beefy is the merlin extrusion?

[CamoDeafie]

dur. someone said 8.5, lol..looks like it'll be right on the dot..the only thing i'm worried about are the 2 grooves, they look like they may interfere with the nelspot's rear bore for the ASA and internals....

OK..i would ONLY have .0227457" of clearance between the groove and the .870 bore for the rear ASA.....on the section that has the rounded edges (looks to be the bottom?) anyone thinks this may be too close for safety sake?