Paintball

[PDJ]

Somehow I managed to generate 2 burrs at the front of the cocking slot on the MR2 body resulting in 2 big scratches in the top of the bolt. The burrs I've fixed (TLC with a fine round file) But the scratches are a different kettle of fish. Any suggestions on how to fix it?
Having a scalpel on hand means I've shaved the "slivers" off meaning the bolt will actually go in, but no amount of gentle manipulation allows "bind free" use.

Taking a 7 foot (vertical) slide into a trench at a big game (someone removed the safety tape) about 6-8 weeks later means I also got a pile of fine dust into the mechanism (as well as eliminating myself by shooting self in knee maybe I should have barrel tagged )

Anyway back on thread, the end result is Scratched Delrin Bolt:

• On top as "extensions" to the slot where the spring mounted hammer link/cocking pin runs (deepish)
• Grime "tattooed" into side

Is it meant to "bind" slightly on insertion? (I can't for the life of me remember if it did before, and I never thought much of the seal, light was always visible around it)

Would pictures help? Or did it somehow make sense as it is?

Cheers,
PDJ

[merc]

when i deburr plastic i hold my razor at 90* to the part (or at a slight back angle) and scrape the part. not cutting. dont let the blade dig in.

maybe a little scotch brite and wd40 to clean it up

as far as any particals pressed into the alum body. i would use a pic to remove. you can fix it and make it look new again but it will take a VERY skilled person. normally i would just file off any raised metal and call it good.

you can tap the metal back in using a piece of drill rod and a small hammer 4oz. push the raised metal back into the pits and smooth it all out with sand paper. polish and reanno.

pictures could help of exactly what you want to fix but this is what i would recomend if i understand you correctly.

[Railgun]

Merc has the technique spot on. If you don't have a razor blade one of the boxcutter blades will do if it's fresh. You won't be able to remove the groove, just the flared up material sitting up on either side.

Grime embedded into the delrin might be able to be cleaned out with some WD40 or a cleaning solvent like Varsol or oil house paint thinner otherwise known as mineral spirits. But there may still be a bit of discoloration. No biggie.

With no Orings on it and without the hammer connected the bolt MUST be able to easily slide back and forth as you tip the gun body back and forth. Any binding must be found. If there is some then check the bolt for a bend by rolling it on some glass or other known surface to be very flat and without dips or ridges. If it's still jamming you may need to check the body of the gun to see if it has been tweeked by that fall. But either way the bolt has to slide easily and freely back and forth. Same with the hammer if you remove the Oring.

[PDJ]

Thanks for the help, I've managed to clean the edges of the flared up material and the bolt now cycles comfortably during operation. It still binds on removal/insertion of the bolt.
I've shaved it, pressed it and even "burnished" it and it's still not 100%... I guess I'll have to try with extra fine emory powder...

I'm spending a good couple of weeks tinkering (getting ready for my PGP to arrive) because my daughter's birthday definitely comes before taking part in the local wood tournament ( Ok I admit I did check and double check the possibility, but just can't make the distance in the available time )

Any help with that project/thread would be great... (Sheridan PGP efficiency)

Cheers,
PDJ

[pizzaluvr]

You can use some toothpaste to polish it up. Put about a brushes worth on it, rub it around with your fingers, then rub it in with a soft cloth(Microfiber)

[Railgun]

Watch it. It's quite common on my various cockers for the bolt to be a more snug fit passing through the back block than it is in the body. If you're checking this out then pull the bolt and the cocking rod out and swing the back block out of the way and try the bolt ONLY in the body. If you can tilt it about 20 to 25 degrees either way from level and the bolt slides in the bore you're golden. This is without the O rings in place and withe bore and bolt both "dry" as you can make it by wiping them down. No puddles of oil in other words.

[PDJ]

Hiya Rail, this is a Spyder MR2 so it's all one big piece (body & block) good point though, I was wondering if it might be a tighter fit at that point.
Cheers,
PDJ