Paintball

[Heebs]

I know the preferred method of choice is using a bench grinder with a soft wheel and jeweler's rogue but I dont have any of that on me right now.

Is 2000 grit sandpaper too rough? I wanted to polish a guide rod, cocking rod and hammer in my new S6.

[Mayvik]

You might be OK with wet sanding at 2000 grit as a temporary, depending on how rough the parts are already you should see some improvement but not as much as if you used "real" polishing compound. I've sanded external parts with 1000 grit wet, and they come out pretty smooth. I'd test it out on a small area first (on something easily replaceable) and make sure you're sanding either concentrically or longitudinally, no weird diagonals or ellipses.

[Railgun]

I think you're going to find that it works just fine. Used with some light oil as a washing and lube 2000 grit paper gets things nice and slick and ready for some final work from even rubbing compound and an old rag.

For the hammer you actually want to leave a "haze" rather than mirror it anyway. The micro scratches that are part of the slightly dull finish will hold just enough oil to lube the bolt's travel. A truly mirrored surface doesn't hold this film as readilly. This is why you see a lot of ball bearing internals and other things like engine cylinders look very smooth but stop just barely short of being truly mirror finished.

A hint for you.... Polish the stuff with the black side and oil and after you've smoothed it down then flip the paper over and use the back side. I've found that wetordry paper has an abrasive quality on the backside that is just right for "honing" or "polishing". It still won't mirror it out but it'll make you smile. Also you will want to go up through a few grades of paper. Start with 400 then go with 800 then 1000 or 1200 and finish it off with the 2000. Don't cheat, you need to first smoothen off the bumps and only then work your way through the grits using each one to fully remove the scratches of the previous grit before moving on to the next. 1000 grit won't remove the scratches from 400 without a TON of work.

[pump]

i usually polish with 220 for stock lathed line hammers up to 1500 then polsih

CCM i start with 400 or 600 then up to 1500 then polish, its a mirror when im done, and its gone the moment i put it back into the gun hahahahaha

but the lathe lines are the ones yhou want gone, CCM has very little lines, but everything deserves a mirror finish

[Heebs]

Awesome news, I'll polish up my S6 today

[pump]

i just gotta be careful not to take off too much metal, or you get more play than you need


BTW why are you polishing the internals of an S6? its smooth enough

[Heebs]

I just ended up polishing the guide rods and the cocking rod. Made a WORLD of difference. It's almost too smooth now. I need to throw a second pump return spring on there to keep it from double feeding when I run. I'm going to leave the guts alone now.

[pump]

try the hammer, lug, sear, and bottom of the sear where the roller rolls under it

makes the gun happy

[Heebs]

Originally Posted by pump

try the hammer, lug, sear, and bottom of the sear where the roller rolls under it

makes the gun happy

I did polish up my Redux's guts, WOW. INCREDIBLY smooth pump stroke now.

[Harbinger[TG]]

Dremel with a cloth wheel and polishing compound