Paintball

[Speedy]

My Benjamin Sheridan v-series 68 cal. wont reload, I have to do manual!! how do I fix it? :P I'm new to paintball so all data will be apriciaded

thx

[dukie]

Well since nobody else has answered you, you have to take bottom of the barrel help. ( thats me!) I have never worked on a VM before, but they seems similar to most other blowbacks. I have worked on lots of those for many years.

What is it doing? making a Thhhppppppppppppppppp sound? Sounds like it is going full auto, but never actually sends the bolt back far enough to load another ball. Or does it just fire once and not recock at all?

[Railgun]

Yeah, with all the VM lovers here I'm surprised there isn't two pages of answers already...

[Tugboater203]

Make sure it lubed up really well, including the Hammer. I had that exact problem and it was due to excessive friction. Try that first.
Tug

[Speedy]

Originally Posted by dukie

Well since nobody else has answered you, you have to take bottom of the barrel help. ( thats me!) I have never worked on a VM before, but they seems similar to most other blowbacks. I have worked on lots of those for many years.

What is it doing? making a Thhhppppppppppppppppp sound? Sounds like it is going full auto, but never actually sends the bolt back far enough to load another ball. Or does it just fire once and not recock at all?

Yeah, it sounds like it's going on full auto....

[HP_Lovecraft]

Originally Posted by Speedy

Yeah, it sounds like it's going on full auto....

OK, lots of things to check-

First, the obvious- Is the co2 tank full? Are you sure? I've made that mistake a few times.

Next, is the FPS adjuster on the bolt within a "click". If it is between clicks, it can cause the gun to go full auto.

Next, how are the orings on the bolt? Bloated or cracked? They were low-grade orings, and might need to be replaced. A good test is to see if the bolt can slide freely down the barrel. You can get orings from an hardware store, but a better source is vm68.com

Next, the detent fingers might be "pinching". If they get worn or stretch, the bolt clips then, and can cause problems. A simple fix is to reverse the fingers.

If the bolt is aftermarket, it might need some tuning to work right. I've often seen the incorrectly sized. Or maybe they work well with the stock barrel, but not an aftermarket barrel.

Next, the valve- The valve setscrews might be the wrong size. If they are too long, they push into the cupseal, and prevent it from working right.

Next, the spring might be worn. Hard to test, but a good fix is to drop some dimes behind the spring-guide to give it a boost.

Also, are there any paintshells, or dried paint inside the gun? Make sure it has a very good clean with hot water and soap.

Then the hammer- Is the oring in good shape? If it is swelled, it could be getting pinched causing it to go full auto. A quick test is to remove the oring, and see if it cycles without it.

The last this is the sear. they are very complex, and very difficult to work with. Often, people try and adjust something, and loose parts causing the problem you described. There is a very good picture/breakdown at vmempire.com showing what it should look like.

However, if the trigger is bad, that is the one thing you might have a problem with. The best solution might be to find a junky VM (maybe for $30?) and swap in the trigger? Or check with Legion to see if that is something he can fabricate?

[thepenguinc]

along with checking all the o rings you might also want to look at which position the valve is in. there are 4 different sized holes in it. depending on which one is open(in the 12 o'clock position) depends on how much air is being used to fire the ball and also how much air is being used to re-cock the hammer. if more air is going out the barrel, less air is re-cocking that giant hammer resulting in a single fire followed by the thhhhhpppppp and ending with an un-cocked gun. in other words turn the valve so that a smaller hole is pointed to 12.

all this differs from the full auto effect. pull the trigger, and as long as it pulls it shots, when released the gun ends in a cocked position. if that's the case you've got a bad shear.

[A.C. Basbas]

Originally Posted by dukie

I have never worked on a VM before, but they seems similar to most other blowbacks. I have worked on lots of those for many years.

It's basically a Spyder... Well, I guess it's like "VM is to Spyder" as "Cromagnon is to Homosapien".