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| Ask The Experts You ask the tough questions |
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| | #1 (permalink) |
| MCB Member Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: NS, Canada
Posts: 80
| Wood Stock Woes Well I got a blue streak stock and trigger group in the mail yesterday, and at first glace all looked good, but then I found a crack in the butt (did I just say butt crack?) Anyways, I read some of the wood stock finishing articles here (and on the web) and it looks like the main repair suggestions that I have access to are good ol' carpenter glue, gorillia glue,or armour coat epoxy. I was hoping that someone might be able to make a suggestion about these chioces, and also if I should make the repairs and then strip the stock for refinishing or strip it first. I wanted to send the stock to PPS for a hurc conversion, but I don't want to end up wasting my money if the stock isn't going to last. My other option is to just try finding another stock and using this one to experiment with finishes. Sorry about the quality but, here are some pics of the damage: ![]() ![]() |
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| | #2 (permalink) | |
| "Skinny" (Moderator) Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Schen. NY
Posts: 8,320
| That's nothing. If the piece has not actually come off, leave it be. You could try prying it open enough to inject some glue, but that may give you mixed results. If it is loose then that is another matter, shim it open far enough that you can get glue through out the entire crack, then use a rubber band to hold the pieces together while the glue dries. Once dry (let it sit for at least a day if not 2) then you can sand and finish it to your hearts content. You will end up with a line where you don't get finish because of the glue, but if you clean the joint carefully after applying glue it won't be that noticable. Good luck. E
__________________ If you can't stand the heat... get the heck out of the kitchen. And don't let the door hit you on the *** on the way out. Quote:
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| | #4 (permalink) | |
| "Skinny" (Moderator) Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Schen. NY
Posts: 8,320
| ![]() Had a rude comeback... but I'm trying to be nice. E
__________________ If you can't stand the heat... get the heck out of the kitchen. And don't let the door hit you on the *** on the way out. Quote:
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| | #5 (permalink) |
| Canuck | If its not loose you might be able to fill the crack with some "wood filler" and then just sand it smooth.
__________________ Spyder Aggressor -- Palmer stab - milled for timmy bolt Automag -- ULE body - Q-loader - Logic 90° frame Pump Autococker -- Palmer Fatty stab - WWA pump kit PGP -- Kframe - Quick Changer - CooperT Bolt KP2 -- Performance tune and side tube re-addition by Dan Sergison PMI-1 -- Mint |
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| | #6 (permalink) | |
| "Skinny" (Moderator) Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Schen. NY
Posts: 8,320
| Wood filler is not a good binder... it's just filler. Also it's thick enough that you can't do much more than get it slightly below the surface. Shimming the crack open and injecting good wood glue (Gorilla works great) is a good method if you are really worried. Otherwise, sand it by hand and if and when it breaks then glue it back on. E
__________________ If you can't stand the heat... get the heck out of the kitchen. And don't let the door hit you on the *** on the way out. Quote:
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| | #7 (permalink) | |
| The Mods' Mod! Join Date: May 2006 Location: Trenchtown
Posts: 5,718
| Nope... that's just too easy a set up. Y'all are thinking the same thing that I am, I am sure. ![]()
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| | #8 (permalink) |
| Post Whore | yep.. thats the best way, though if its just a shallow crack that doesn't require much adhesive support.. for your crack in the butt.. you can mix sawdust (sanding dust more likely) from the same stock even.. with wood glue, and fill it with that.. it won't be perfect, but it'll match the color fairly closely and still supply some strength |
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| | #9 (permalink) |
| Moderating in Moderation Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Long Island
Posts: 4,965
| be careful with gorilla glue - it expands. It's a great glue just keep that in mind
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| | #10 (permalink) |
| Canuck | I didn't mean for the wood filler to "fix" it, more to hide it if the crack is not deep or the piece of wood is not loose.
__________________ Spyder Aggressor -- Palmer stab - milled for timmy bolt Automag -- ULE body - Q-loader - Logic 90° frame Pump Autococker -- Palmer Fatty stab - WWA pump kit PGP -- Kframe - Quick Changer - CooperT Bolt KP2 -- Performance tune and side tube re-addition by Dan Sergison PMI-1 -- Mint |
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