Autococker help

phantom89 · 07-22-2008, 11:10 PM

I just bought a black magic pump autococker and am having some troubles. When I air the marker up, I have a leak somewhere in the body. When I pump the bolt back, it leaks down the barrel. Can anyone diagnose the problem by this or should I take it into my local shop? If anyone does know the problem, how much would the part be to fix it?
Thanks guys

brycelarson · 07-22-2008, 11:34 PM

do you mean when it's cocked it leaks down the barrel - or when you are holding the pump arm back?

phantom89 · 07-22-2008, 11:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brycelarson

do you mean when it's cocked it leaks down the barrel - or when you are holding the pump arm back?

When I hold the pump arm back it leaks the barrel. When the bolt is closed it leaks somewhere else.

Railgun · 07-23-2008, 12:14 AM

If it's leaking down the barrel or up through the feedneck that means the valve is leaking. It may be the cupseal or it could be the Oring that seals the valve's seat into the main body.

Also check that the plug is screwed into the valve from below the trigger frame. But either way the valve in leaking and that needs attention first. The other things are just options that'll alter where the air comes out.

phantom89 · 07-23-2008, 12:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Railgun

If it's leaking down the barrel or up through the feedneck that means the valve is leaking. It may be the cupseal or it could be the Oring that seals the valve's seat into the main body.

Also check that the plug is screwed into the valve from below the trigger frame. But either way the valve in leaking and that needs attention first. The other things are just options that'll alter where the air comes out.

About how much would a new valve cost?

Railgun · 07-23-2008, 12:19 AM

You probably don't NEED a new valve. Just a way to get the old one out and replace the Oring and make sure it's re-installed right. While it's out you can check the cup seal and valve seat for cracks or nicks that may be what is letting the air leak. If the cup seal looks good then replace the Oring, oil everything up well and reinstall with the locating pin and locking ring done up correctly. This means barely snug for the locating pin and passingly tight but not white knuckle tight for the locking ring. If by some chance the cup seal or valve seat has a nick or crack in either THEN you can go shopping for a new cupseal or maybe a whole new valve. But in my experience it's far more commonly just a new Oring that is needed.

phantom89 · 07-23-2008, 12:21 AM

Many thanks for the help.

Railgun · 07-23-2008, 12:29 AM

Oh, I forgot to mention that if you're going to have a sniper in your arsenal from this point on it's a good idea to invest in a valve tool just for doing this job. It likely won't be the last time you'll need it.

07-22-2008, 11:10 PM	#1 (permalink)
phantom89 Active Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Los Angles, CA	Autococker help I just bought a black magic pump autococker and am having some troubles. When I air the marker up, I have a leak somewhere in the body. When I pump the bolt back, it leaks down the barrel. Can anyone diagnose the problem by this or should I take it into my local shop? If anyone does know the problem, how much would the part be to fix it? Thanks guys

07-22-2008, 11:34 PM	#2 (permalink)
brycelarson MCB Member Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Minnesota	do you mean when it's cocked it leaks down the barrel - or when you are holding the pump arm back? __________________ -Bryce Larson bryce@101010.org Feedback Contact me for FN303 Modifications

07-23-2008, 12:14 AM	#4 (permalink)
Railgun Post Whore Join Date: Oct 2006	If it's leaking down the barrel or up through the feedneck that means the valve is leaking. It may be the cupseal or it could be the Oring that seals the valve's seat into the main body. Also check that the plug is screwed into the valve from below the trigger frame. But either way the valve in leaking and that needs attention first. The other things are just options that'll alter where the air comes out. __________________ I had a "Paintball God" moment once. Like Al Bundy's Polk High football moment I live on for the slim chance of repeating that one time miracle in some small way.........

07-23-2008, 12:19 AM	#6 (permalink)
Railgun Post Whore Join Date: Oct 2006	You probably don't NEED a new valve. Just a way to get the old one out and replace the Oring and make sure it's re-installed right. While it's out you can check the cup seal and valve seat for cracks or nicks that may be what is letting the air leak. If the cup seal looks good then replace the Oring, oil everything up well and reinstall with the locating pin and locking ring done up correctly. This means barely snug for the locating pin and passingly tight but not white knuckle tight for the locking ring. If by some chance the cup seal or valve seat has a nick or crack in either THEN you can go shopping for a new cupseal or maybe a whole new valve. But in my experience it's far more commonly just a new Oring that is needed. __________________ I had a "Paintball God" moment once. Like Al Bundy's Polk High football moment I live on for the slim chance of repeating that one time miracle in some small way.........

07-23-2008, 12:29 AM	#8 (permalink)
Railgun Post Whore Join Date: Oct 2006	Oh, I forgot to mention that if you're going to have a sniper in your arsenal from this point on it's a good idea to invest in a valve tool just for doing this job. It likely won't be the last time you'll need it. __________________ I had a "Paintball God" moment once. Like Al Bundy's Polk High football moment I live on for the slim chance of repeating that one time miracle in some small way.........

07-23-2008, 12:21 AM	#7 (permalink)
phantom89 Active Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Los Angles, CA	Many thanks for the help.

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