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Old 10-05-2006, 09:33 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Anodizing a SL68 II

I recently bought a SL68 II. Iím thinking about buffing the finish smooth (leaving the name intact) and Anodizing. From what I remember the marker is aluminum but real porous. Would the buffing help with the ano?

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Old 10-05-2006, 09:40 AM   #2 (permalink)
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A couple things to note. There is a steel pin inside the grip near the air line. That pin must be removed before anno.

Secondly the gun is insanely porous. The surface area is terrible. That being said, It is possible. You must have it sanded down, then polished quite a bit.

Ken Newell Has half an SL body that is Bright Yellow. Just to prove it can be done.

(good luck getting that pin out without damaging the body.) If you find a way please let me know!
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Old 10-05-2006, 09:50 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Actually, SL-68s are made of some weird allow that's not entirely aluminum (a mix of aluminum and magnesium, I think?) that's not anodizable. I'm pretty sure they can be powdercoated, but anodizing is right out.

EDIT: OK, given Knightmare's response, I'm just repeating what I was told when I asked on Doc's forum years ago when I had an SL-68 II. Maybe whoever told me that was smoking crack. Dunno. I never pursued the anodizing option and instead got a can of Krylon "crinkle-finish" spraypaint in forest green. Looked real sharp, but wasn't all that durable so I ended up stripping it.
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Old 10-05-2006, 10:10 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wycke View Post
Actually, SL-68s are made of some weird allow that's not entirely aluminum (a mix of aluminum and magnesium, I think?) that's not anodizable. I'm pretty sure they can be powdercoated, but anodizing is right out.

EDIT: OK, given Knightmare's response, I'm just repeating what I was told when I asked on Doc's forum years ago when I had an SL-68 II. Maybe whoever told me that was smoking crack. Dunno. I never pursued the anodizing option and instead got a can of Krylon "crinkle-finish" spraypaint in forest green. Looked real sharp, but wasn't all that durable so I ended up stripping it.

Everyone has always told me the same thing on docs and everywhere. Thats why we did it on a half a body that was no good to test it out. And with the right prep work they are dead wrong. The Surface picks up magnesium from the mold, but if you sand past the surface then you will find anodizable alluminum.
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Old 10-05-2006, 10:56 AM   #5 (permalink)
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1. When I buff the surface will I be able to tell the difference between the magnesium and the aluminum...
2. hhmmm can something be put on that SS bare that is in the grip, To keep it from being anode? I don’t have the pump yet its still in the mail so I cant see this "bar".
3. I’m not knowledgeable on anodizing, but it seams like there should be some way to protect a part when you dip the marker.


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Old 10-05-2006, 11:30 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pepper View Post
1. When I buff the surface will I be able to tell the difference between the magnesium and the aluminum...
2. hhmmm can something be put on that SS bare that is in the grip, To keep it from being anode? I donít have the pump yet its still in the mail so I cant see this "bar".
3. Iím not knowledgeable on anodizing, but it seams like there should be some way to protect a part when you dip the marker.


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Wax should work. (just boil it out when you seal the marker, and make sure your dyes arent too warm so the waxwon't melt into them.)

Never tried it, but that is my idea for when we do a full SL Body.

As for telling, I would recomend just sand it down so there is no more pourus metal.
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Old 10-05-2006, 02:05 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I've been told sticking a gun in the freezer for a few hours makes removing pins easier, the metal shrinks and what not.
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Old 10-05-2006, 02:16 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Do Little View Post
I've been told sticking a gun in the freezer for a few hours makes removing pins easier, the metal shrinks and what not.
true, but this pin is down in the airline. Not easy to get at
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Old 10-05-2006, 03:03 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Sounds like the marker would have to be plugged at both ends. Do yall have a link o that Anoed Sl68 you talked about?
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Old 10-05-2006, 09:13 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I'll see if ken can get me some pictures... my external hard drive with all my pics crashed when I plugged the wrong power adapter into it. OOPS!
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