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Old 10-31-2006, 04:35 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Ok, swapped out the springs and switched up the bolt 0-ring. Still can't get the damn thing above 220. I really wanna keep the J&J...
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Old 10-31-2006, 06:38 PM   #12 (permalink)
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try a siphon tank
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Old 10-31-2006, 07:27 PM   #13 (permalink)
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My guess would be that you have a bad paint to barrel match since you were getting higher velocity with the stock barrel.Are you using Co2 or HPA.Co2 will give you higher pressure(unless the HPA is adjustable)and therefore higher velocity.
I have and have used a SL68II since 91-92 and it works great.
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Old 10-31-2006, 08:31 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lee View Post
My guess would be that you have a bad paint to barrel match since you were getting higher velocity with the stock barrel.Are you using Co2 or HPA.Co2 will give you higher pressure(unless the HPA is adjustable)and therefore higher velocity.
I'm running Co2... How much bigger is the ID on a J&J vs. the stock ID? I find it tough to believe that it'll make that much of a difference. I was thinking because of all the porting, that'd be more of a problem. But I'll give it a go with some other paint and see what happens.
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Old 10-31-2006, 08:36 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Tippmann still has NOS springs for SL-68's, at least they did about 8 months ago when I bought some from them. Cost me $6.
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Old 11-01-2006, 02:50 PM   #16 (permalink)
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I wonder... what if I swapped out the old velocity screw with a shorter one. That way I'd be able to back it out completely and (hopefully) get the velocity up. It's either that or maybe try a different barrel (other than stock).
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Old 11-01-2006, 04:02 PM   #17 (permalink)
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The thing with the velocity screw is that it will be at the highest velocity when the screw is flush. If you have it in, it creates turbulence in the air flow, thus slowing your velocity. If you have it out past flush though, it will also create some turbulence and affect your velocity.
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