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|10-24-2006, 08:33 AM||#1 (permalink)|
Cleaning old parts
I have a old nelson, bought it heavily modified, and it came with a bunch of extra parts. Problem is the extra parts are pretty beat up some rust etc. how can I clean them up so that they are at least usable any ideas?
|10-24-2006, 09:20 AM||#2 (permalink)|
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: North East Texas
Outside of body - in either case you could just sand it down(I prefer Scotchbrite but sandpaper or sand/bead blasting will work)
Internals or inside of body - surface rust just sand it off and polish the parts.
Internals/inside of body - "deep rust" it would just depend on the part if you can correct it or not. In some cases you could sane it down and polish it and it would still work in others the "pits" would cause friction and in turn either case the gun not to work properly or damage other parts.
Inside of barrel - Pitted you can hone it out to remove the pits or have it over-bored by an machine shop/airsmith and have it sleeved.
Hope this helps.
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|10-24-2006, 11:27 AM||#3 (permalink)|
Join Date: Sep 2006
Yup, if you have access to a bead blaster that works great.
I've used sandpaper roll attached to a small polishing lathe to good effect on rusted barrels. I'll finish it off with some steal wool attached to a dowel and a power drill. A cheap Flex-hone replacement that hasn't harmed the Nellie I use.
I know of people who've used Easy Off and other cleaning products to remove the exterior coating. Just beware, as over application pits the surface badly! I wouldn't recommend this technique at all.
|10-24-2006, 11:48 AM||#4 (permalink)|
I used "Aircraft Remover" to take the paint off my Nelspot and that worked fine. Seriously, it's called "Aircraft Remover" ... it's made to take paint off of aluminum but generally works fine for other metals.
After that I just sanded and Scotch brite'd the outside. The inside of the barrel was worse though, and for that I used a shotgun hone, and then polished with a .30 cal cleaning kit using Scotch Brite ad a "patch" and some metal polish. Both the hone and the Scotch Brite were both run on a cordless drill.
|10-24-2006, 12:10 PM||#5 (permalink)|
On a related note, anyone have tips on cleaning out rust and old teflon from tapped holes in aluminium?
I'm restoring a desert fox and all the steel screws and plugs are rusted pretty bad. Need to replace them with stainless.
|10-24-2006, 12:26 PM||#6 (permalink)|
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Brandon, Florida
For that one, I've always just used my taps. Especially old ones that I don't mind grinding the tip off of. Just spin it into the hole, and it usually cleans it pretty well. If it doesn't want to go in, a quick dab of WD40 always helps, just be sure not to force it bad enough to crossthread it.
If you don't have dies, take a bolt of the appropriate size and grind some slightly angles slots lengthwise with a dremel. Also works for fixing crossthreaded holes in decades-old Ford small blocks, in a pinch.
|10-24-2006, 03:35 PM||#8 (permalink)|
Lord humungus the Mod
I would attempt to remove the rust without actually removing and material(sanding, blasting, ect.) this will typically give you a good idea of the extent of the rust. There are plenty of industrial rust removers that can be purchased. My favorite method is as follows:
Electrolytic rust removal,
Mix 1 part baking soda or the prefered washing soda with 10 parts water. Next take a car battery or car battery charger and hook the positive lead to the part to be cleaned and submerge it into the soda/water solution. Next slowly drop the negative lead into the solution. Let it sit for about 10 minutes. The parts should bubble, and the rust will simply wash away.
This method is pretty simple and will yeild great results...just make sure you connect the leads in the proper order just the same as jumping a car.
"I wish simply to be a decent person, yet I will always fear the retards" -Brian Hindt(geech)
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