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Old 10-06-2009, 10:38 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Drilling a Phantom/Nelson TPC

Latest iteration, based on input from (in alphabetical order) Chappy, DSA, Dukie, GreenMtnPhantom, IronChef97, new2pump, RedNeckSniper, skx762, Splattttttt and others:

The TPC has been completely sliced off and contoured with a countersink bit.



Shown in the above photo: TPC, Redux bolt, pierce pin assembly and modified
velocity adjuster with pins for installing pierce pin assembly.

(for more on the pierce-pin tool, see this thread: http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/c...-assembly.html)


Installed in the bolt, it sits far enough back that the gas diffuses before reaching the paintball.

***



INITIAL TEST DATA
  • Marballizer*, 0.675 TyMcneer insert, 7" barrel, valve insert
  • initial velocity: 315fps (!)
  • no breaks (!)
  • reduced velocity to between 285 and 298fps
  • still no breaks
  • louder and more of a "gas cloud" apparent
  • did I mention NO BREAKS?

I'm calling this a resounding success.

If extremely brittle, tournament grade paint isn't breaking at 315fps, underbored significantly, it suggests there is a large margin of error with this configuration.

Detuning to 285fps adds a further safety margin.

***

Take special note: a valve insert was used to avoid siphoning liquid directly from the 12-gram. I would highly recommend this.

Though I haven't tested without the valve insert, I suspect siphoned liquid CO2 could cause paint breakage with this open-faced bolt configuration.



***

*measured with Mongo's ball gauge, the Marballizer either catches slightly on the 0.679 hole or drops through, touching slightly. I put that at around 0.678, give or take 0.001.


FYI, if I had a mill, I'd contour the inside of the TPC to "hex shaped" to a standard velocity adjuster would work. HaveBlue did that to a TPC. See this thread:
Modded TPC
HaveBlue's TPC:


*** *** ***

In retrospect and in light of the above, it seems clear why simply drilling a hole in the TPC face destroys paint.
  • the paintball sits DIRECTLY on the face of the bolt.
  • gas has no place to expand
  • the paintball is impacted with a full pressure SPIKE of gas

Even rubbery, recreational grade paint won't survive that treatment.

Historical information below

EDIT: I haven't shot it yet but I just re-drilled the TPC.

You can bore the hole to 3/8" (about 4.5mm) which removes all obstruction to airflow from the power tube.

The benefit of this over cutting the whole head off is there are still slots on the edge a standard velocity adjust tool will work on; no need for a huge screwdriver.

mcarterbrown.com

*** *** ***

Has anyone had experience drilling a hole in the front of a Phantom tuned-port-compensator (TPC)?

I cite the second paragraph of this page: LAPCO Phantom Internals

The author indicates better efficiency having cut the front of their TPC off, creating a straight-line path from powertube to barrel.

Previous revision, drilled to 3/32-inch (2.5mm):
mcarterbrown.com

Trackbacks: What do phantoms look like with the PPS phantom stabilizer?

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Attached Images
File Type: jpg TPC_Drilled_Out_crop.jpg (96.2 KB, 552 views)
File Type: jpg Redux_TPC_Pierce_assy_tool.jpg (94.6 KB, 455 views)
File Type: jpg Redux_drilled_TPC.jpg (170.7 KB, 201 views)
File Type: jpg Have Blue TPC hex milled.jpg (36.5 KB, 392 views)

Last edited by CJOttawa; 09-07-2010 at 01:53 PM.
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Old 10-06-2009, 02:23 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I cut the front of my TPC off for my regulated setup, i havent got the springing figured out yet so i cant compare the effiency.
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Old 10-06-2009, 08:45 PM   #3 (permalink)
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This gave me an idea... what about not drilling it all the way through, but just putting a small hole in the middle? It would allow you to still use the stock velocity adjuster.
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Old 10-06-2009, 08:47 PM   #4 (permalink)
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That's exactly what I did. The hole is fairly wide but there's still a slot for the velocity adjuster at the perimeter. Just haven't had a chance to test it out yet.
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Old 10-06-2009, 11:45 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Sounds interesting. I would personally enjoy machining different parts for Phantoms if I had the tools money and time. However my Phantom works great on C/A CO2 and if it aint broke, don't fix it .
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Old 10-06-2009, 11:52 PM   #6 (permalink)
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cj watch out for brittle paint!
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Old 10-07-2009, 06:59 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Gogged_Gurl View Post
cj watch out for brittle paint!
*laughs* Yeah, I thought that might be a concern. I expect I'll have to use a weaker main spring to compensate for the added force.

I'll be using X-Ball Gold so it's about as brittle a tournament paint as you can get. If it survives, I'm confident most paint will.
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Old 10-08-2009, 02:14 PM   #8 (permalink)
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was also thinking of doing this. don't know when. also need to buy a chrono.. damn. i need cash!
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Old 10-08-2009, 05:09 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I played in a pump tournament where we used x-ball gold. In the first game I believe 4 out of 5 guns went down due to catastrophic barrel breakage: a Bushmaster, Sniper, Phantom, and Grey Ghost.

I sometimes have problems with ball breakage on my Buzzard, even regulated down to ~6-700 psi. I'm hoping that I can get ahold of a really tightly ported venturi adjuster for it.
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Old 10-08-2009, 05:12 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by russc View Post
I played in a pump tournament where we used x-ball gold. In the first game I believe 4 out of 5 guns went down due to catastrophic barrel breakage: a Bushmaster, Sniper, Phantom, and Grey Ghost.
So far, with the Redux and underbored Freak inserts, X-Ball Gold hasn't given me grief. *knock on wood*

That's been with a standard TPC though; I'll let you know how the drilled one works.
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