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Old 05-07-2006, 04:31 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Rainmaker question

I just got a new rainmaker and the thing doesn't hold air, but the reg is backed all the way out. Do the stock seals need a certain amount of pressure to hold air?

When I disassembled it to see if any seals were blown they all looked to be in very good condition, well oiled and everything. Just wondering if it needed more pressure to seal.
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Old 05-07-2006, 06:15 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Try shooting it a couple of times as you gas it up. The hammer pushes the valve pin in (and hence, the valve open) and a couple of quick shots while gassing up will pull the hammer away from the valve long enough for the valve to seal.

The o-rings on the HPR and valve body are available in the plumbing section of your local harware store. Considering that it has sat in a box for 6 or 7 years, consider replacing all of the black (buna rings).
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Old 05-07-2006, 07:14 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Another question I should have asked earlier. Would Rainman's Mac-mount/frame adaptor allow me to keep using the 98 style shroud, or would I have to modify it in order to keep using it? (I don't like getting paint on the pneumatics if I don't have to.)
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Old 05-07-2006, 09:07 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Yes the RM requires pressure to function properly, just like a Nelson pump. If the valve isn't pressurized, the carrier can't latch the hammer. Or the carrier spacing could be too short.

You could use the shroud w/ the mac adapter, but you'd have to open the bottom up a bit to accomodate it.
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Old 05-08-2006, 12:51 AM   #5 (permalink)
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jack up the preasure and fire it as you gas it up.
that should fix the leaks


you could use the frame adapter with the shroud.
you will need to cut the shroud to get it all to fit.
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Old 05-08-2006, 09:24 AM   #6 (permalink)
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That answers all my questions, thanks guys.
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Old 05-08-2006, 04:38 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Finally did a full teardown and found out what the deal was. The previous owner had done some seal replacements by himself, didn't seem like he did too much damage, but what he did was a silly mistake. Obviously there's a setscrew that holds the valve in place. He overtightened it, and it prevented the valve stem from going all the way through the valve, hence the constant valve leakage no matter what I did, and not being familiar with the valve dimensions, I never noticed. I SHOULD have noticed the lack of protrusion of the valve pin in the hammer/bolt carrier section of the tube though. Bah, lack of tinkering experience. I'll get better. Of course I had to remove the valve set screw all the way and the screw was so old and gunked up with paint and what I would assume is blue loctite (why that was there, I don't know.) that I wound up having to twist real hard to remove it and stripped the threading out :-\

Do you guys know the appropriate thread sizing? Maybe my dad's got the tap in his box of toys.
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Old 05-08-2006, 06:58 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Sometimes when the valve grub screw is too tight, it pushes the valve up in the bore and allows a leak under the bottom also.

You should check in over at the BEOG sometime. Lots of us RM people there.
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Old 05-08-2006, 07:35 PM   #9 (permalink)
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the threads are 10-32
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Old 05-08-2006, 08:26 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Thanks again Rainman, you rock.
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