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Old 01-24-2007, 01:11 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Gathering the knowledge

Im trying to get all the input I can on my project.Would be grateful to anyone who'd stop by my thread and offer your advice.Ive opted to link to my original post,rather than make this large post in different places.
http://www.undergroundmodshop.com/fo...ed=1#post81158
Thank you
-Venge-
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Old 01-24-2007, 05:33 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I couldn't sign up for the "undergroundmodshop" for somereason.. argh..
I'll post here..

I believe the old cockers with wooden stocks used the back screw of the grip frame and beavertail screw hole to hold the stock to the marker.

Here are some of the pump kits available for your cocker Pump kits I think the vendetta is for you..

the dragon fly does not have the same threading as standard cockers on many places. so finding a pump kit may prove difficult. retapping the front of the body may work or it may use the same front block screw hole as 1 of the 2 options cockers use. Pre2k cockers use a front block screw about the size of a pencil (just a tad bigger) the 2k+ cockers use a front block screw about the size of a large magic marker.. Also called a banjo bolt.. this hole on the front of the body is where the pump kits screw in.

as far as cutting up that collectable black magic body. skull removed or not, you will destroy its collector value. Like a shellby cobra turned into an indy car but still leaving the cobra decals.. Destroyed. but it is yours to do what you like. But I would suggest selling as a collectable, and buying a standard cocker body kit to cut up. you may make some money for your project on the deal. Or trade it and make them give cash to boot. Just a thought, lol.. As you can see I collect cockers.... lol

And the feed on that BM (black magic) body will unscrew off, but then the male threaded section will still be sticking out of the body. You can send it to FBM and they can replace it with a clamping feed as you desire called a "hooker" feed. I have a cocker in my possession with this right now, very nice looking and low profile...

one last thing.. the stock wgp frame you are using to make this pump is not the best by far. I suggest buying either a benchmark frame or ans quickfire frame (ANS are on ebay right now too) and you will see a much smoother trigger pull..
good luck on the project and enjoy,
Kmac
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Old 01-24-2007, 07:29 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K.macocker View Post
the dragon fly does not have the same threading as standard cockers on many places. so finding a pump kit may prove difficult. retapping the front of the body may work or it may use the same front block screw hole as 1 of the 2 options cockers use. Pre2k cockers use a front block screw about the size of a pencil (just a tad bigger) the 2k+ cockers use a front block screw about the size of a large magic marker.. Also called a banjo bolt.. this hole on the front of the body is where the pump kits screw in.
Yeah the dragun has what is basically a spyder VA where the front block should be.I had hoped to have a VA created that would accept a pump kit,then I should only need a slighty longer pump arm.
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Old 01-24-2007, 11:00 PM   #4 (permalink)
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A guy in my area was making wooden stocks for cockers about a year ago, the bottom was held in place with the bottom line screws then the top just got help in place with the beaver tail screw. I also suggest not hacking up that body, please, it even doesnt have eye holes. Also I frogot to mention, thats a weird way to put your tank, just going up like that, if you dont get a anti syphon or maybe in the case of this tank position a syphon (scince a regular syphon goes straight to the bottom and this is basicly upsidedown, why dont you use a remote line?

Last edited by mullet; 01-24-2007 at 11:23 PM.
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