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Old 11-19-2013, 08:20 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Sounds to me like it needs a bit more valve spring tension. Try turning in the adjuster for the Zero system on the front of the gun a little and see if the behavior changes any.
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Old 11-20-2013, 01:43 PM   #22 (permalink)
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You can always contact Azodin directly at tech@azodin.com or at 909-468-3600.

Try resetting the pieces of the marker back to factory settings:

The rear velocity adjuster should only show about 2 threads (or two turns in from flush)

The Zero System should be turned in 2 turns from flush

The regulator can be reset using the following:

1. Degas the marker and clear out the air from the regulator
2. Turn the regulator adjustment screw all the way in (closed position)
3. Turn the regulator adjustment screw out 2.5 turns

This should get you back to about 250 psi on the regulator. If you are still experiencing this issues you might want to inspect your regulator seat for damages. This pieces is P086 and you want to look at the red plastic piece that is seated in the brass housing. To get to this pieces you will need to remove the c-clip at the bottom of the regulator.

if the red piece is damaged, dented, or missing the regulator will not function properly and will feed the output pressure of your tank into the marker. The zero spring is not stiff enough to keep the valve closed under all that pressure which will lead to the leaks you hear. Tightening the zero tension screw will increase the spring pressure and may eventually seal the valve, but it is not an ideal fix.

If the bolt is getting stuck 90% of the way back and doesn't catch the sear (when using paint) it might be due to the resistance of the paintball that will slow the bolt speed down. If there is high pressure behind the valve then the bolt will not have sufficient force to open it all the way because of the lower bolt speed. When the bolt is free to slide unimpeded then it it could generate enough speed from the spring to open the valve a sufficient amount to recock (when your dry firing).

The high pressure behind the valve will also cause low velocity. I believe in your previous post it said you were shooting 250?

Turning in the rear velocity adjuster screw to compensate for the high pressure is usually not in your best interest as the screw will prevent the striker from recocking. Do not turn the rear velocity adjuster in more than 5 turns otherwise recocking issues may ensue.

Please consider my points.

Last edited by shogo242; 11-20-2013 at 01:52 PM.
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Old 11-21-2013, 03:26 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shogo242 View Post
The zero spring is not stiff enough to keep the valve closed under all that pressure which will lead to the leaks you hear. Tightening the zero tension screw will increase the spring pressure and may eventually seal the valve, but it is not an ideal fix.
I'm just gna stop you right there. Go back and read....i never used the word 'leak' to describe what was happening with the valve. It is getting stuck open. Period. Not. A. "Leak."

Quote:
Originally Posted by shogo242 View Post
If the bolt is getting stuck 90% of the way back and doesn't catch the sear (when using paint) it might be due to the resistance of the paintball that will slow the bolt speed down. If there is high pressure behind the valve then the bolt will not have sufficient force to open it all the way because of the lower bolt speed. When the bolt is free to slide unimpeded then it it could generate enough speed from the spring to open the valve a sufficient amount to recock (when your dry firing).
Exactly how much does a single paintball, with only the force of natural gravity, impede the bolt? Also, (if you re-read my posts) the '90%' of the way back brings the bolt very much clear of the chamber, allowing any ball to fall straight in, and blown straight down the barrel by the 'stuck open' (note, not "leaking") valve.

Quote:
Originally Posted by shogo242 View Post
The high pressure behind the valve will also cause low velocity. I believe in your previous post it said you were shooting 250?

Turning in the rear velocity adjuster screw to compensate for the high pressure is usually not in your best interest as the screw will prevent the striker from recocking. (Not only that, but it will shear the threads off both the screw and the screw-block) Do not turn the rear velocity adjuster in more than 5 turns otherwise recocking issues may ensue. (again, i acknowledged this flaw already, and addressed the more serious ramifications of it being in too far)

Please consider my points.
First, "recocking" is not the issue. "valve getting stuck open while the bolt is about 90% back so all the balls drop straight into chamber and get blown down barrel" is the issue.

Second. So, if, when the reg is set to 250psi, and the rear screw is most of the way in....and i'm still shooting under 250 FPS with bore-match barrel...you suggest i do what exactly? Note that i said it was functioning fine while it was only shooting below 250fps. It's when i use the reg as the next velocity step that it begins to have issues.

I will attempt to disassemble the reg, though i don't have the fancy tool to get the initial c-clip off. Though i have yet to test operation with a reg that i know to be functioning 100%.

It's not that i don't want to listen to what you are suggesting. Those suggestions are very good...for the problems you have listed...unfortunately, those are not the problems i am having. But also, please go back and re-read my posts.
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Old 05-13-2014, 11:42 AM   #24 (permalink)
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After having the guy at the Tech PB booth at the Sherwood game look at it and adjust the reg a couple of times it still went haywire, but that weekend i was able to catch it on video each time (i think it esploded 5 seperate times in all). The TechPB guy was miffed when he saw this happen while we were checking it at chrono station.

Here is the clearest view i had (that i've watched so far)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jG3kBso2ISI

This is happening with the bolt/striker already back 'behind' the sear. It just makes no sense.

At this point, with stock barrel and paint that was occasionally breaking in a .689 barrel, we are at the end of where i feel comfortable adjusting with the rear screw. Without adjusting the reg (which seems to cause this issue) my only next option seems to be using different drive springs to achieve higher velocity with smaller paint.
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Old 05-14-2014, 10:06 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Kaos D doing some weird stuff.

My Zenith did exactly the same thing. I believe it is the valve sticking open. It's a balancing act between the reg, valve spring and hammer spring. I think it's a flawed design. Between that and the double fires I get I don't use mine, don't trust it at all. It has no resale value so I'm left with a paper weight. But I usually play stock pump anyway, so this was a bit of a waist of $ for me to begin with.

If you can, ditch the Azodin and go get a GOG eNMy. Most fun I've had with a semi auto since my Autococker.

Last edited by 1shot; 05-14-2014 at 10:09 AM.
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Old 05-14-2014, 02:47 PM   #26 (permalink)
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The one with the issue is my brother's.

Mine has yet to do this, and the only trouble i had with mine was a slow leak through the valve which would case me to need to fill up my 50/4500 3 times through a day just to shoot 300 balls. That has since been mostly fixed. (i haven't 'bucket tested' it since it it returned from factory the last time though) Through the process of sending it back in they gave me the new reg of theirs for free, so that might also be part of the reason MY gun hasn't shown this issue.

I trust mine to function 100%, i just have to make sure to turn the air off while not on the field (and back on again before the game) if i don't have access to free air at that field.

We have several other trusty mechs we use if the Azodin's rare their tantrums. The next gun i get will either be a phantom or a mag.
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Old 05-14-2014, 10:27 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by panhead4411 View Post
We have several other trusty mechs we use if the Azodin's rare their tantrums. The next gun i get will either be a phantom or a mag.

I would seriously consider changing that to Phantom or an eNMy. Lots of guys shelving their mags for eNMys. Phantoms are awesome, I own 4 and always take one to the field. I would say it's the most reliable paintball gun I've ever used.

I like what Azodin tried to do. Meaning make great entry level guns. But it seems like the reliability varies from good to poor. I think their cheaper models are actually their better guns, more K.I.S.S.
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