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Old 12-20-2010, 04:28 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Clean and lube is always the first step. If that doesn't help then it could be any one of the things that Marty listed, they all cause the same symptoms. It sounds quiet in the video, try turning up the HPR and some new AA's.
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Old 12-20-2010, 08:50 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Am I crazy, or was Brass Eagle? Are these Allen screws a combination of SAE and metric? 1/8" was perfect for the grip frame screw, but spins in the two screws that I assume hold the HPR in place...move up one size to 5/32" and that's too big. Are they 9/64" or did they really mix standard and metric?

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Old 12-20-2010, 08:58 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I'm also surprised to see the damage that the wire ball detent has done to the corner of the leading edge of the bolt.

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Old 12-21-2010, 06:26 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by coldy13 View Post
There's a set screw in front of the rear grip frame screw, loosen it a few turns and the valve can slide out the back.
(Broken pic here leads to the image on Flickr...guess you can't link to Flickr photos? Time to find another service, I guess) -->

OK, that set screw is not budging, at least not after the inital 1/8th of a turn or so that I got it to do (with a lot of effort...enough that I was worried my Allen wrench was going to snap). I'm really worried about rounding out the head of the screw, but it isn't moving at all. Thoughts?

Randy...

Last edited by randyshipp; 12-21-2010 at 06:32 PM.
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Old 12-21-2010, 06:38 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Never mind about the set screw. No clue what that does, but I've gotten the parts apart.

EDIT: Guess that's a lie. The valve body is still in there. The hammer and carrier are out, as is the stem that goes through the valve body with the brass seat on the rear. But the valve body remains. Given how filthy other stuff in here has been, I'm guessing it'd be optimal to get that valve out and clean in, but as I mentioned, that set screw seems frozen. I dabbed some oil on it...we'll see if any penetrates.

Randy...

P.S.-- Are other people able to upload photos to the MCB gallery? I'm having no luck.

Last edited by randyshipp; 12-21-2010 at 07:05 PM.
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Old 12-21-2010, 08:46 PM   #16 (permalink)
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That set screw can be a pain to remove. Let the oil or preferably PB Blaster soak in and slowly twist it in and out until you get it out far enough to slide the valve out, you don't need to completely remove it, although it's not a bad idea if the threads are that gunked up. If you have a small butane torch lighter you can apply some heat to the screw, just a few seconds down the hole should do it, then try to remove it. It it still wont budge heat it up again and then hit it with PB Blaster, the shock from hot to cold WILL loosen up the screw and allow the blaster to penetrate. Keep in mind PB blaster and nearly all penetrants are flammable so clean it out before you torch it

The brass cup seal isn't stock and I've never seen one, could just be an upgraded seal or maybe you already have an upgraded valve in there.
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Old 12-22-2010, 02:40 AM   #17 (permalink)
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The brass cup seal isn't stock and I've never seen one, could just be an upgraded seal or maybe you already have an upgraded valve in there.
Weird. I'm pretty sure it's a quite early Rainmaker, and I don't think it's ever been in for service, but I could be getting senile. In any case, this is what the piece looks like:



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Old 12-22-2010, 02:42 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Oh, and is this the major mauling that the Mad Marty mods are meant to manage, mates?




Randy...

Last edited by randyshipp; 12-22-2010 at 03:35 PM.
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Old 12-22-2010, 04:18 PM   #19 (permalink)
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[QUOTE=randyshipp;1604374]Oh, and is this the major mauling that the Mad Marty mods are meant to manage, mates?
QUOTE]

That was my understanding. He seems to offer some pretty reasonable rates. I'm thinking about having mine modded.
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Old 12-22-2010, 08:30 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Randy,

The valve pin is one of the early ones. If you can get the cup seal off, a standard spyder seal will work as a replacement.

The hammer is showing all the normal signs of wear. The hole in the front is from hitting the valve pin. Steel will always win against aluminum. The scraping on the top-back is caused by the spring trying to push the hammer away from the carrier. This effect jams the whole assmbly in the main body and this is why the gun needs such a large ram to move everything. I you look up inside the body, you will see about a 1" long scrape mark; that is where the hammer is scraping the anno off.

So my mods prevent the hammer from wearing the hole in the face, make the hammer to carrier interface tight and prevents the scraping, plus when the hammer does release it will move smoother...
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