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Old 03-05-2012, 11:06 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Randy, whatever happened with your Rain Maker, get it working?
I think he sold it on here BUT im having similar issues with my lovely ebay purchase. Bonus worthy btw. Extra parts, laser sight and select fire board.

Stripped it all down tonight. Read up on all the MCB threads and such. Related the operation to something like an autococking, auto roller sear tripping phantom. Sleek lubed it all up. Put it back together. Adjusted the ram length so it now catches the hammer latch. Aired it up and these are my issues..

1) Leak from valve/body/reg area
The reg assembly moves with the slightest touch. Replace reg block oring with a wider one? Body halve seal is liberally caked w sleek lube and tightened down.

2) HPR pressure either not enough to cycle fully (reg srew all the way out) or too high it smacks the valve body back too deeper into the lower tube (reg screw slightly in). Im afraid to torque down the valve set screw in fear it will impact to poppet valve stem. What should the HPR pressure be? I only have a DYE 0-750 gauge to test with.

I think that's it. Thanks
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Old 03-06-2012, 09:50 AM   #32 (permalink)
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Yes, that was Randy's I rebuilt.

It's about ready to finish my "shelf" test. If it still works well after sitting on the shelf for a month or two, I'll call it finished. It's pretty disappointing when a seal sets up on you right after getting everything lined out.
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Old 03-14-2012, 05:22 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Tmoney, the reg moving is normal, it can actually move quite a bit and still seal just fine, if it's really loose it might start to leak though. Pull it back out and inspect the o-ring on it, it's easy to cut the o-ring when sliding it past the cutouts for the bolts, same when installing the valve, use lots of lube and be gentle... The valve set screw doesn't need to be torqued much, I just do 1/8 of a turn after it's seated. The valve should never move no matter how high you turn up the pressure, if it does the set screw isn't even touching the valve and that is your problem. The body half bolts don't need to be that tight either, even if you leave that o-ring out it won't leak when sitting, but it will shoot out a blast of air when you fire the gun. If you can't tell excatly where a leak is coming from use a bit of soapy water and look for the bubbles.
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Old 03-16-2012, 11:43 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Red face

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Tmoney, the reg moving is normal, it can actually move quite a bit and still seal just fine, if it's really loose it might start to leak though. Pull it back out and inspect the o-ring on it, it's easy to cut the o-ring when sliding it past the cutouts for the bolts, same when installing the valve, use lots of lube and be gentle... The valve set screw doesn't need to be torqued much, I just do 1/8 of a turn after it's seated. The valve should never move no matter how high you turn up the pressure, if it does the set screw isn't even touching the valve and that is your problem. The body half bolts don't need to be that tight either, even if you leave that o-ring out it won't leak when sitting, but it will shoot out a blast of air when you fire the gun. If you can't tell excatly where a leak is coming from use a bit of soapy water and look for the bubbles.
Update: Leaks around the reg are fixed. Replacing the o-rings with the correct size helps! No wonder the guy had it in parts. Now, my only problem is cup seal on poppet won't seal. It came with 3 different stems and caps. I have the original copper cap with delrin insert, that was worse. The newest looking all delrin cap looks to be in the best condition but leaks like a siv. It's cleaned and Sleek lubed enough taht it should seal. SO -- that leads me back to questioning the reg pressure situation. Any tips for setting the reg to default with the full stack of springs? I need to put in a higher pressure gauge to get an accurate reading. Again, it seems to jump from 200 - 850+ within a 1/4 turn..That doesn't seem right to me.

Last edited by tmoneyblingbling; 03-16-2012 at 11:47 PM.
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Old 03-17-2012, 06:43 AM   #35 (permalink)
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I think mine run at around 350-400psi, I'll air one up and check when I get home. I have a couple extra regs if you need a new one, your spring pack could be worn out.

You can use spyder cup seals, just thread them onto the pin/stem, probably need to use pliers to get the old one off. But it sounds more like the seat on the valve has a scratch on it, take it out and sand it with a fine stone, lapping compound, sandpaper on a block, however you do it just make sure to keep it good and flat, then polish it up nice, should take care of your leak. The leak might also be causing the pressure to not stay steady if the leak is bad enough.

Last edited by coldy13; 03-17-2012 at 06:54 AM.
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Old 03-17-2012, 09:52 AM   #36 (permalink)
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I think mine run at around 350-400psi, I'll air one up and check when I get home. I have a couple extra regs if you need a new one, your spring pack could be worn out.

You can use spyder cup seals, just thread them onto the pin/stem, probably need to use pliers to get the old one off. But it sounds more like the seat on the valve has a scratch on it, take it out and sand it with a fine stone, lapping compound, sandpaper on a block, however you do it just make sure to keep it good and flat, then polish it up nice, should take care of your leak. The leak might also be causing the pressure to not stay steady if the leak is bad enough.
Thanks, I will give that a try this weekend.
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Old 03-17-2012, 10:20 AM   #37 (permalink)
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Again, it seems to jump from 200 - 850+ within a 1/4 turn..That doesn't seem right to me.
That sounds like the washer stack in the reg is stacked as a solid pack instead of alternating curvature. That, or some serious sticking on the piston.
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Old 03-17-2012, 10:25 AM   #38 (permalink)
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That sounds like the washer stack in the reg is stacked as a solid pack instead of alternating curvature. That, or some serious sticking on the piston.
Hmm! The thought crossed my mind that I haven't removed the piston itself from the front of the reg assembly. I'll have to get the c-clip off and check it out. The stack is packed correctly and well lubricated so they aren't sticking.
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Old 03-18-2012, 05:33 PM   #39 (permalink)
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Hey guys, when troubleshooting valve leaks, I recommend removing the ram and trigger frame assemblies from the gun. If the ram/carrier is not latched on the hammer, then gassing-up the gun will make the valve leak and never build the pressure needed to latch. Soapy water and a spray bottle work wonders when sniffing around for the leak. First get the valve to seal, then put the ram assembly in and test that.

Likewise when troubleshooting cycling issues, leave the trigger frame off so you can see the carrier and hammer move. This will tell you a lot...either its not latching or its not tripping the sear.

In the Rain Maker, pressure rules; the right pressure equals speed and strength
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Old 03-19-2012, 09:17 AM   #40 (permalink)
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Also, when you first air it up it's normal for it to leak. You need to fire it at least once to latch the hammer on the carrier, otherwise the spring pressure holds the valve open.

Taking it apart like Marty said for testing is also a great idea, makes it much easier to figure out exactly what's causing you problems. I forgot about it since mine have actually stayed working for a long time Marty's mods are the main reason for that.

Quick question for you, the only problem I have now is every few cases the bolt link will snap. My bodies are a bit worn out from the bolt link, would adding a set screw to the carrier help much or should I just stock up on bolt links?
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