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Old 03-19-2012, 09:27 PM   #41 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by coldy13 View Post
Quick question for you, the only problem I have now is every few cases the bolt link will snap. My bodies are a bit worn out from the bolt link, would adding a set screw to the carrier help much or should I just stock up on bolt links?
That is exactually what the setscrew mod is designed for. If you have my mods, you should have the setscrew in the carrier already. If you are going to do it yourself...The setscrew is a 8-32" x 1/4 ", I forget on the exact length. You need a good 8-32" tap, do not use a cheap one, and take it slow. You are tapping into hardened steel. I broke one off in one of my first carrier mods and I was only god for a paper weight afterwords.
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Old 03-21-2012, 08:49 AM   #42 (permalink)
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I had you work your magic on the internals a year or two ago, not sure if the set screw is in there or not, I never looked for it. If it is then I probably just need to adjust it, I made the last couple bolt links out of some scrap stainless rod I had laying around, so the ends aren't the same as a factory link.
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Old 03-21-2012, 10:07 AM   #43 (permalink)
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If you don't need the speed, you might lower the LPR and get more life out of your links. After everything in the action is lined up, it doesn't need as much force to work properly, but you still have to fill the ram for the rate you want to shoot.
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Old 03-25-2012, 03:11 AM   #44 (permalink)
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Hey guys, when troubleshooting valve leaks, I recommend removing the ram and trigger frame assemblies from the gun. If the ram/carrier is not latched on the hammer, then gassing-up the gun will make the valve leak and never build the pressure needed to latch. Soapy water and a spray bottle work wonders when sniffing around for the leak. First get the valve to seal, then put the ram assembly in and test that.

Likewise when troubleshooting cycling issues, leave the trigger frame off so you can see the carrier and hammer move. This will tell you a lot...either its not latching or its not tripping the sear.

In the Rain Maker, pressure rules; the right pressure equals speed and strength
So I pulled the valve and reg pin assembly apart and lubed etc. Still have the leak thru the valve. I have to think that there is not enough reg pressure to seat the valve cap on the cup seal. But Im afraid to over pressurize the system. At what point should I start adjusting the HPR pressure. My 750 valve is obviously maxed because the tank out put is 850. When I start with the HPR reg screw out far enough there is no pressue on the spring pack, it leaks like crazy, the ram moves but the system does not cycle. If I start with the HPR set screw flush with the back of the reg assembly, the leaking slows and the system actually cycles and puts out a shot but the valve still leaks.
Any OEM tuning advice would be helpful. Thanks


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Old 03-25-2012, 07:01 AM   #45 (permalink)
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mine run at around 350-400psi

it sounds like the seat on the valve has a scratch on it, take it out and sand it with a fine stone, lapping compound, sandpaper on a block, however you do it just make sure to keep it good and flat, then polish it up nice, should take care of your leak.
The HPR pressure is the only way to adjust velocity, if you need to go above 500psi to make the valve seal, there is a scratch on the valve seat, or the cup seal is worn out. Spyder cup seals work and are cheap if it's not the valve seat. I think the adjuster screw for the HPR should be close to flush with the cap/reg body.

Here is the manual if you don't have it, page 16 shows the carrier/ram length, if this is too long it will also cause the problem you are having. http://paintballgunmanuals.com/manua...ker-Manual.pdf

Some retard drew the picture in the manual, the measurement is with the ram fully extended, from the sharp corner on the carrier where the hammer latches, to the sharp corner just to the left of the long black mark above the ram. Measure it with dial or digital calipers, if you don't have any, get some or borrow from somebody. you can probably eyeball it with a tape measure if you have to

Last edited by coldy13; 03-25-2012 at 01:28 PM.
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Old 03-26-2012, 12:26 AM   #46 (permalink)
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After revisiting the valve body and sanding the cup seal face w 2000 grit, I noticed that my valve body has a interface o-ring on the cup seal side that is not spec'd on the schematics but fits snugly in the space provided. Is it supposed to be there?
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Old 03-26-2012, 05:33 AM   #47 (permalink)
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Hmm, I wonder if you have some kind of aftermarket valve in there. The stock cup seals are just like the spyder seal, no o-ring, just a solid delrin like material. On the stock valve, part #19 is two pieces, a metal pin with a cup seal threaded onto it. I have one that is all metal, one piece, but I havn't seen one like you're talking about.
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Old 03-26-2012, 08:55 AM   #48 (permalink)
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Hmm, I wonder if you have some kind of aftermarket valve in there. The stock cup seals are just like the spyder seal, no o-ring, just a solid delrin like material. On the stock valve, part #19 is two pieces, a metal pin with a cup seal threaded onto it. I have one that is all metal, one piece, but I havn't seen one like you're talking about.
Maybe. Right on the cup seal, it came with 2 delrin and one brass/o-ring. I'm talking about the valve housing though. Maybe I'm using the wrong terminology.
I'll take it apart and get some pics tonight. After sanding/smoothing it makes a farting noise now. Almost like the valve spring is not heavy enough or that o-ring isn't supposed to be there.
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Old 03-26-2012, 09:17 PM   #49 (permalink)
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Here's what I got..




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Old 03-26-2012, 09:24 PM   #50 (permalink)
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That valve port (or just the seat?) looks huge in the pic. Do those poppets actually fit?

I drilled mine out to .312 and had to fiddle with the springs. I added some volume in the back as well. That looks like a full 3/8" on the seat and it wouldn't take a lot of pressure to hold it closed. If the poppets aren't riding that seat ridge, they won't seal well.
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