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Old 03-26-2012, 09:39 PM   #51 (permalink)
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That valve port (or just the seat?) looks huge in the pic. Do those poppets actually fit?

I drilled mine out to .312 and had to fiddle with the springs. I added some volume in the back as well. That looks like a full 3/8" on the seat and it wouldn't take a lot of pressure to hold it closed. If the poppets aren't riding that seat ridge, they won't seal well.
I smoothed both the cup seal on the poppet and this flat o-ring on both sides. they are even and smooth now. The stem fits into the valve port quite nicely.

Pics w/ o-ring removed and then assembled with poppet.




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Old 03-27-2012, 02:14 AM   #52 (permalink)
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On a stock valve, the lip on the valve seat matches up with the air hole, meaning the inner diameter of the lip and the diamater of the hole are the same. That's definately not a stock valve, the lip on yours is much bigger. Normally the cup seal seals on its bottom surface against the lip, yours is sitting down inside the lip. I'll get some pics of mine for you this morning when I get off work.

Does the flat washer lock into the valve in any way or does it just kinda sit there? I'd be worried about it moving and getting pinched between shots.

I've never seen a valve like that, maybe Marty can help you. If you can't get it to seal I have an extra stock valve body that will work with your cup seals.

edit- Here's the pics of my valves. The one on the left is stock, the one on the right is my quiet valve, it has an aftermarket 1 piece, all metal cup seal. The valve body was stock, but I countersunk it so the metal cup seal seals on the angled corner, still need to lap it some or cut 2 more angles into it (just like a car engine valve seat) to get rid of a tiny leak before I use it again.



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Old 03-28-2012, 01:23 AM   #53 (permalink)
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Wow yea mine is nothing like that. The o-ring sits in a channel around the valve port opening. I think it attributes to the fart sounding leak that it makes now that all surfaces have been smoothed. I'm going to try it this weekend without the o-ring to see if it seals on its own once I get some more air. thanks for the pics.
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Old 03-28-2012, 11:28 AM   #54 (permalink)
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It looks like that flat seal fits in the valve body and seals against the body and the poppet face. But the poppet face should be hard (like brass) to sit on it (ala a reg pin ring seal). Then, what would keep it sitting in the valve body when the valve opens? Hmm.
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Old 03-28-2012, 11:42 AM   #55 (permalink)
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It looks like that flat seal fits in the valve body and seals against the body and the poppet face. But the poppet face should be hard (like brass) to sit on it (ala a reg pin ring seal). Then, what would keep it sitting in the valve body when the valve opens? Hmm.
I dunno, it was a big box of parts when I got it lol. Every poppet face that I have is delrin. Always a challenge rebuilding markers I know nothing about. I hope that's all it is because I'd really like to button it up and call it complete soon.
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Old 03-29-2012, 03:36 AM   #56 (permalink)
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I'd guess the brass cupseal on the left goes with that valve. It looks like there's a lip on the brass that goes past the plastic insert, that lip should dig into the plastic washer on the valve body and seal.

If you need it, you can have my extra valve body for $5+shipping, I'll clean it up before I send it. I dont like selling my extra parts, but if it keeps another RM working then I'm fine with it
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Old 03-29-2012, 10:22 AM   #57 (permalink)
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I'd guess the brass cupseal on the left goes with that valve. It looks like there's a lip on the brass that goes past the plastic insert, that lip should dig into the plastic washer on the valve body and seal.

If you need it, you can have my extra valve body for $5+shipping, I'll clean it up before I send it. I dont like selling my extra parts, but if it keeps another RM working then I'm fine with it
Much Appreciated,
I removed the o-ring, swapped in the brass cupseal, now I need air. About to contact a few websites I came across that still stock RM parts:
Brass Eagle Rainmaker Paintball Gun Parts
Brass Eagle Rainmaker Paintball Gun Upgrades
Brass Eagle Rainmaker Paintball Gun Parts
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Old 03-29-2012, 10:47 AM   #58 (permalink)
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Looking close at this pic, it looks like there is a smaller lip on the air passage, couldn't see it on my crappy monitor at work. If I'm looking at it right, it should seal on any of the cup seals as long as they fit down inside the bigger lip, leave out the plastic washer, although with the brass cup seal you might try it with the washer in.

That valve body is probably affecting the valve pin length, could easily cause some cycling problems. Changing to with/without the plastic washer on the valve seat definitely affects the pin length. The hammer could be holding the valve open or it might not even cycle if the pin doesn't stick out the back of the valve far enough. I'm not sure if that measurement is listed anywhere, I could take one of mine apart to measure it if you need.
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Old 03-29-2012, 11:47 AM   #59 (permalink)
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Much Appreciated,
I removed the o-ring, swapped in the brass cupseal, now I need air. About to contact a few websites I came across that still stock RM parts:
Brass Eagle Rainmaker Paintball Gun Parts
Brass Eagle Rainmaker Paintball Gun Upgrades
Brass Eagle Rainmaker Paintball Gun Parts
The jtpaintballparts site was good for my rainmaker parts. Shipping costs were reasonable and delivery time was good.
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Old 03-30-2012, 08:45 AM   #60 (permalink)
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The jtpaintballparts site was good for my rainmaker parts. Shipping costs were reasonable and delivery time was good.
Great. I read somewhere they might have some sort of 'players part package' or something along those lines for the RM. Emailing today to inquire.
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