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Old 12-11-2010, 01:54 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Anyone do RM tech work?

I have RM #085 that quit cycling years ago and has been sitting around waiting for a chance to get fixed. At the time, a misaligned ram was a suspect in why you could hear it trying to cycle, but failing. Anyway, it needs some very light wiring work (one of the 4xAA pack leads has pulled out of one of the connectors, etc.), and needs to be restored to firing condition. Does anyone have parts and/or expertise with these? When it worked, it was a loud, weird, accurate as heck joy to play with!

Randy...
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Old 12-11-2010, 03:06 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I can tech them, along with at least 10-20 other guys on here. The rams are pretty heavy duty, I've only seen them damaged from improper removal from the gun. The thing that makes these guns hard to tech is so many different problems act the same way. So usually I just start taking it apart and check everything until I find whats wrong.

If it's a gun you plan on using much then see if Mad Marty will take it, you NEED his hammer/carrier mods to keep the gun from breaking, if the hammer latch isn't already broken. I have extras of every part for the gun except the hammer
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Old 12-11-2010, 03:20 PM   #3 (permalink)
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It cycles, but does not fire?

The RM has a fixed dwell, so if anything slows the system down, it often doesnt have enough time left to trip the sear.

Sometimes that can be caused by a pinched LPR line. You have to be carefull if you ever remove the grip, otherwise the line might get caught when reintalling it.

The LPR itself is a bit flaky to begin with. It was such a common mod to bypass it with something like the Sledgehammer, greatly improves cycling.

One problem they have is the aluminium hammer literally eats itself apart when it cycles. It might be severly worn, or at least filled the lower tube with gunk that has slowed it down.
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Old 12-12-2010, 02:58 PM   #4 (permalink)
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OK. Some good information here. Are there any pictorial or video guides of the internals of this beast? I can try tearing it down if I have some sense of what goes where.

Also, do you have contact info for Mad Marty, just in case?

Randy...
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Old 12-13-2010, 12:33 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I usually take the frame and regs off together, leave the airline on both. You need to disconnect the wires and lp hose from the MAC valve then take out the 2 frame screws and 2 screws that hold in the reg assembly. Pushing the reg into the gun makes taking those screws out a bit easier, and if you dont eventually the reg will fit looser than it should. From there take out the 4 small screws in the top of the gun to remove the upper receiver. There is an o-ring and the bolt linkage in between the upper and lower receivers, don't lose them. There's a set screw in front of the rear grip frame screw, loosen it a few turns and the valve can slide out the back. One pinch bolt on the front ram, sometimes you can pull it out by hand, usually its stuck in there good and you need a wood dowel or something to tap it out. The carrier is attached to the ram so make sure you don't bend it if your pulling it out by hand.

I have a PDF of the manual but it's too big to upload it here, not much useful info in there except the wiring and carrier/ram spacing.

Mad Marty is his name on this forum, just send him a PM, I'm not sure if he still does tech work or just the hammer/carrier mods.
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Last edited by coldy13; 12-13-2010 at 12:36 AM.
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Old 12-14-2010, 01:19 AM   #6 (permalink)
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OK, I sent Mad Marty a PM asking his opinion. Thanks for that tip.

As for diving into the internals...I'm going to move slowly. The diagram and description that Coldy13 offered were a little confusing to me and I'd hate to take something apart and be unsure how to get it back together. (I suppose I could just photograph or video the whole process and use it as a trail of bread crumbs to guide me putting things back together...I would love to get the insides completely cleaned.)

Thanks for all the info. This seems relatively more complex than an Autococker, for instance...I wonder if that had anything to do with the difference in the two markers' success? ;-)

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Old 12-17-2010, 08:28 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Hey Randy,

If you decide to keep the RM, you really need to be able to rip it apart and put it back together again. These things like to be clean and well lubed; especially the stock ones.

As described above, the gun does not fire when the cycle is slow; the dwell times out and move the bolt back. Several things can cause this.

1. A weak battery. The MAC valve does not switch well on a weak battery.
2. The main regulator is not turned up enough to push the ram fast enough. This really equates to staving the LPR. If you don't have 80-100psi from your LPR through the MAC to the ram, the ram will move sloooow.
3. The contition of #2 can be caused by dry regulators, especially the LPR. Take it apart, clean and lube.
4. Hose could be pinched, starving the LPR system. Slows the cycle time
5. Your gun could be experiencing excessive wear on the hammer and bolt link slide. This causes the friction to build and slows the cycle time.
6. Your hammer could have a hole beat into the face and the carrier is not latching the hammer any longer.
7. QEVs. If your QEVs are missing or they are jammed the gas does not vent properly and slows down the cycle time.

There are a lot of things that can add up and cause the problem you are seeing.
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Old 12-18-2010, 05:10 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mad Marty View Post
Hey Randy,

If you decide to keep the RM, you really need to be able to rip it apart and put it back together again. These things like to be clean and well lubed; especially the stock ones.
I have a full tank of CO2 now, and I'm charging some batteries right now to power the beast up. I'll get you a better description of its behavior as soon as I can. Just a few quick questions in the interim:

1) Do you think these 1.2V NiMH rechargeable batteries will be OK? It didn't occur to me before picking them up that they weren't a completely identical replacement for 1.5V alkaline batteries.

2) What kind of lube and/or cleaning stuff should I have on hand for this thing? Is 3-in-1 oil OK, or do I need to get something else.

Thanks in advance.

Randy...
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Old 12-18-2010, 01:50 PM   #9 (permalink)
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3 in 1 oil isn't thick enough or the right kind of lube for a paintball gun. I use a barrel swab and soapy water to clean the insides. You want a thick lube like Pure lube, Hater, or DOW 33 on the hammer and carrier, and a couple drops of marker oil in the ASA to lube the regs. Not too sure about those batteries, both of mine take 9v's.
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Old 12-20-2010, 02:44 AM   #10 (permalink)
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I'm more confused than ever now. I powered and gassed it up. There's a little leak in one of the microline fittings, but that can probably be fixed easily enough. At first, it didn't cycle fully -- just a ka-chick! and a little gas exhausted -- but then it started firing, though it missed a couple in a the middle of a string of shots. When I last put it away, I don't think it was firing at all.

So, do you think just a strip, clean, and lube is the first step?

Video of the test at YouTube - Rainmaker #085 not cycling right ...or is it?

Randy...
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