RM leak and frame question.

GtrLvr · 07-19-2011, 10:30 AM

I just acquired my first gun with a battery, I've delved into the dark side. It's a Rainmaker so I suppose that makes it ok.

It's the single trigger version with the burst and auto modes. Seems to be stock. It worked but was really dirty inside. It was full of rusty old oil. So I took it apart and cleaned it. Someone had stacked all the reg washers facing the same way, so I fixed that.

Now it wants to leak down the barrel, a lot. It looks like there are only 2 places it could leak, the cupseal and the valve o-ring. The cupseal and valve face look great and I replaced the o-ring on the valve twice. Seems like something else is making the valve stay open. Any ideas? Now that I think about it, maybe I got the ram hoses reversed on the noid, would that cause this? It does shoot but leaks like crazy. Unfortunately I'm totally out of air and can't do any more work until I hit the field.

Edit: Yay! I fixed it. Turns out the carrier and ram spacing was about 2.26" instead of the 2.23". Posting this here for future reference.

Also when I got it, the guy gave me a double trigger frame that has a sear on it. It definitely will not fit my body. What is this for? A pump but the body needs to be milled for it?

cdc120602 · 07-19-2011, 12:51 PM

Looks like a Raptor frame to me. If I'm not mistaken, you can canibalize one side of it for your RM to get a double trigger on it.

EDIT: Or maybe it's just that the triggers are identical...

Rosch · 07-19-2011, 12:54 PM

That double trigger frame with sear is from a Brass Eagle Raptor (the older semi-auto, not that new plastic pump with the same name). I believe the Raptor and the Rainmaker had almost identical frames except for the difference with sear/mechanical and electro.

GtrLvr · 07-19-2011, 01:18 PM

Ok cool. Yeah the frame lines up perfectly, there's just no place for the sear to go. Now I suppose this makes a start to a Raptor, I'll just have to find the rest of the parts to put one together.

cdc120602 · 07-19-2011, 01:36 PM

I'd just buy a whole Raptor. They're cheap. See if you can use the double trigger for the RM.

Rainman229 · 07-22-2011, 10:06 PM

Í don't remember what came first the raptor or the rainmaker. But if you remove the 2 screws and take the frame apart you should be able to see if it has all the slots in it from the board and switch mount. depending on which board you have. some boards had mounted switches. others had buttons external. Everything should mount up.

GtrLvr · 07-23-2011, 10:14 PM

Thanks for the help guys. Just used this today, it worked great, they really are great shooters. I put a loudener on it and it was easily the loudest marker I've ever heard. This one is definitely a keeper.

I ordered the "tournament parts kit" from JTparts.com because I needed a shroud and figured extra parts are always good to have. They sent me way more parts than were listed, both shrouds and both body pieces. Almost everything to build another. I was happily surprised.

So since I have all these parts to play with, I now have more questions. I read something about replacing the board with a universal board and putting the battery in the frame, what kind of board would be needed and where can they be found?

The solenoid is huge, is there a smaller modern equivalent, maybe one that could be hidden in the frame?

Also, this is probably for Rainman, is it possible to get a back plug with no reg or LPR on it, just a plug tapped for air fittings?

Rosch · 07-24-2011, 01:10 PM

There used to be a ton of aftermarket/universal boards available that would work in the Rainmaker. Anymore though there are only a couple still available for sale new, the rest are harder to find in various forums' b/s/t section.

Anyways the universal board I've been seeing most people nowadays using in the Rainmaker is the Universal T-Board. It's very tiny compared to the stock board, has features way beyond the stock board, and it has a rats-nest of wiring that you have to solder yourself. So if you can solder, know someone who can, or can hire someone to do it for you, it's not a half bad option.

Another option is possibly the Painmaker board (Non-LCD Version) if it's still being sold. Again it has more features than the stock board, but about the same size, should be altogether out of the box unlike the T-Board.

Either way you go, they're both kind of a hassle to initially setup. So plan to set aside some adequate time to install, setup and tinker with it all. Oh... and definitely read the manuals for whatever you chose before trying to do the setup.

Rainman229 · 07-24-2011, 05:53 PM

Utb Is probably your best option. Might be your only these days.

As for a valve thats smaller
HUMPHREY VALVE

Part# HO404E1 6VDC

Humphrey Products Company | Build On Our Experience

EMAIL AND ASK FOR NEAREST DISTRIBUTOR

Alternative rainmaker parts list (2 of the dealers listed on the page no longer exist)
Rainmaker Owners Group

Rainman229 · 07-25-2011, 09:51 PM

I may be convinced into making a small run of backblock. I'm not sure if I have the materials needed though.

07-19-2011, 10:30 AM	#1 (permalink)
GtrLvr MCB>my wallet Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: 518 NY	RM leak and frame question. I just acquired my first gun with a battery, I've delved into the dark side. It's a Rainmaker so I suppose that makes it ok. It's the single trigger version with the burst and auto modes. Seems to be stock. It worked but was really dirty inside. It was full of rusty old oil. So I took it apart and cleaned it. Someone had stacked all the reg washers facing the same way, so I fixed that. Now it wants to leak down the barrel, a lot. It looks like there are only 2 places it could leak, the cupseal and the valve o-ring. The cupseal and valve face look great and I replaced the o-ring on the valve twice. Seems like something else is making the valve stay open. Any ideas? Now that I think about it, maybe I got the ram hoses reversed on the noid, would that cause this? It does shoot but leaks like crazy. Unfortunately I'm totally out of air and can't do any more work until I hit the field. Edit: Yay! I fixed it. Turns out the carrier and ram spacing was about 2.26" instead of the 2.23". Posting this here for future reference. Also when I got it, the guy gave me a double trigger frame that has a sear on it. It definitely will not fit my body. What is this for? A pump but the body needs to be milled for it? __________________ Rubber Duckies-518th Brigade "Playing paintball should be fun, score is irrelevant." -Borg "I'd rather be not good on guitar than suck on the organ" Scenario Paintball TV(SPbTV)-Paintball videos from the Northeast, South Carolina and Europe feedback Last edited by GtrLvr; 07-19-2011 at 11:55 AM.

07-19-2011, 12:51 PM	#2 (permalink)
cdc120602 Apprentice Gun Whore Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Erie, PA	Looks like a Raptor frame to me. If I'm not mistaken, you can canibalize one side of it for your RM to get a double trigger on it. EDIT: Or maybe it's just that the triggers are identical... Last edited by cdc120602; 07-19-2011 at 12:58 PM.

07-19-2011, 01:18 PM	#4 (permalink)
GtrLvr MCB>my wallet Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: 518 NY	Ok cool. Yeah the frame lines up perfectly, there's just no place for the sear to go. Now I suppose this makes a start to a Raptor, I'll just have to find the rest of the parts to put one together. __________________ Rubber Duckies-518th Brigade "Playing paintball should be fun, score is irrelevant." -Borg "I'd rather be not good on guitar than suck on the organ" Scenario Paintball TV(SPbTV)-Paintball videos from the Northeast, South Carolina and Europe feedback

07-22-2011, 10:06 PM	#6 (permalink)
Rainman229 Airsmith to the Gods Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: nj	Í don't remember what came first the raptor or the rainmaker. But if you remove the 2 screws and take the frame apart you should be able to see if it has all the slots in it from the board and switch mount. depending on which board you have. some boards had mounted switches. others had buttons external. Everything should mount up. __________________ Email lastone75@aol.com Making paintball fun again feedback http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/s...ght=rainman229

07-23-2011, 10:14 PM	#7 (permalink)
GtrLvr MCB>my wallet Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: 518 NY	Thanks for the help guys. Just used this today, it worked great, they really are great shooters. I put a loudener on it and it was easily the loudest marker I've ever heard. This one is definitely a keeper. I ordered the "tournament parts kit" from JTparts.com because I needed a shroud and figured extra parts are always good to have. They sent me way more parts than were listed, both shrouds and both body pieces. Almost everything to build another. I was happily surprised. So since I have all these parts to play with, I now have more questions. I read something about replacing the board with a universal board and putting the battery in the frame, what kind of board would be needed and where can they be found? The solenoid is huge, is there a smaller modern equivalent, maybe one that could be hidden in the frame? Also, this is probably for Rainman, is it possible to get a back plug with no reg or LPR on it, just a plug tapped for air fittings? __________________ Rubber Duckies-518th Brigade "Playing paintball should be fun, score is irrelevant." -Borg "I'd rather be not good on guitar than suck on the organ" Scenario Paintball TV(SPbTV)-Paintball videos from the Northeast, South Carolina and Europe feedback

07-19-2011, 12:54 PM	#3 (permalink)
Rosch Newbie Join Date: Nov 2010	That double trigger frame with sear is from a Brass Eagle Raptor (the older semi-auto, not that new plastic pump with the same name). I believe the Raptor and the Rainmaker had almost identical frames except for the difference with sear/mechanical and electro.

07-19-2011, 01:36 PM	#5 (permalink)
cdc120602 Apprentice Gun Whore Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Erie, PA	I'd just buy a whole Raptor. They're cheap. See if you can use the double trigger for the RM.

07-24-2011, 01:10 PM	#8 (permalink)
Rosch Newbie Join Date: Nov 2010	There used to be a ton of aftermarket/universal boards available that would work in the Rainmaker. Anymore though there are only a couple still available for sale new, the rest are harder to find in various forums' b/s/t section. Anyways the universal board I've been seeing most people nowadays using in the Rainmaker is the Universal T-Board. It's very tiny compared to the stock board, has features way beyond the stock board, and it has a rats-nest of wiring that you have to solder yourself. So if you can solder, know someone who can, or can hire someone to do it for you, it's not a half bad option. Another option is possibly the Painmaker board (Non-LCD Version) if it's still being sold. Again it has more features than the stock board, but about the same size, should be altogether out of the box unlike the T-Board. Either way you go, they're both kind of a hassle to initially setup. So plan to set aside some adequate time to install, setup and tinker with it all. Oh... and definitely read the manuals for whatever you chose before trying to do the setup.

07-24-2011, 05:53 PM	#9 (permalink)
Rainman229 Airsmith to the Gods Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: nj	Utb Is probably your best option. Might be your only these days. As for a valve thats smaller HUMPHREY VALVE Part# HO404E1 6VDC Humphrey Products Company \| Build On Our Experience EMAIL AND ASK FOR NEAREST DISTRIBUTOR Alternative rainmaker parts list (2 of the dealers listed on the page no longer exist) Rainmaker Owners Group __________________ Email lastone75@aol.com Making paintball fun again feedback http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/s...ght=rainman229

07-25-2011, 09:51 PM	#10 (permalink)
Rainman229 Airsmith to the Gods Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: nj	I may be convinced into making a small run of backblock. I'm not sure if I have the materials needed though. __________________ Email lastone75@aol.com Making paintball fun again feedback http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/s...ght=rainman229

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