Rainmaker

Dk-79 · 08-09-2011, 02:58 PM

So I recently bought a NIB... well close to NIB rainmaker. It's a first gen with the four AA's and big shroud. Even got the box, manuals, and warranty info.

I'm in the mood to build something.. different. My Old Man is a machinist and I've got some time off lined up in the coming months so that I can do some machining.

Aside from recreating the carrier and most of the lower tube's soft metal parts out of stainless, I want to gut the LPR/HPR and hopefully fine a female stabilizer or run an automag VA.

Those mods are pretty well documented and I should be able to plug and play off the old RMOG.

I don't much care for the single trigger and I was wondering if I could use a different one. If I built a mounting bracket for the solenoid, could I use an eblade? I know E1's let you control all aspects of the (for lack of a better word) dwell, which would come in handy considering the "long" cycle times of the RM.

Are there other existing trigger frames/boards/solenoids out there I can harvest that would cross over to the RM? Machining them to fit won't be an issue.

How good is the stock ram, and are there any existing walkthroughs for modding cocker rams to fit? I know the carrier spacing is crucial, and the actual mounting might be a bitch, but I think I could make it work with a finger in the right direction.

I know that's pretty long winded, but if you got this far, thanks for reading.

-DK

HP_Lovecraft · 08-10-2011, 02:42 PM

The cocker ram uses different threads, and the Rainmaker comes with a really good "off the shelf" Clippard ram. There really is no reason to change it. You can get new replacements directly from Clippard. Bimba also makes a version that will drop right in.

Most any board could work, if the dwell is adjustable enough. But most open-bolt electros will have a dwell of 5-15ms. The Rainmaker will need 30-50ms. 50ms is the factory setting. With an adjustable board, and a higher LPR, you can get it down to 30ms. You will know when you have gone to far because it will no longer fire!

Closed-bolt boards should have a plenty long dwell, since they are accomplishing the same thing as the rainmaker, but are designed for dual-noids.

Dk-79 · 08-10-2011, 06:47 PM

So does the Eblade solenoid share any similarities to the stock solenoid?

I'm thinking I could mount a braket off the stock ram or body area somewhere's and simply run an E1. Frame, board, and noid.

Rainman229 · 08-11-2011, 12:05 AM

Eblade board will not work. Simply don't have enough dwell time. In a cocker the dwell is low, it only has to cock the marker and allow enoug htime for ball drop and rest to closed bolt. Usually in the max of 15ms. and then the sear noid is even faster then that.

A timmy and angel board don't have enough dwell either. there cycle time is basicaly how long to keep the hammer forward and the valve open. their a little higher in dwell at 15 to 25ms.

An Rm on the other hand when fired has to have enough time to pull the bolt forward and trip the hammer, open the valve to fire then release to reset the hammer. Increasing the needed dwell to 30 to 35ms. Rms are a auto trigger pump in all reality. So you have to take that pumping action in consideration in the timing. Aka the sterling

best bet for a board for the rm now a days is the Scenario Dreams universal board. it should handle the dwell range.

08-09-2011, 02:58 PM	#1 (permalink)
Dk-79 Newbie Join Date: Jul 2011	Rainmaker So I recently bought a NIB... well close to NIB rainmaker. It's a first gen with the four AA's and big shroud. Even got the box, manuals, and warranty info. I'm in the mood to build something.. different. My Old Man is a machinist and I've got some time off lined up in the coming months so that I can do some machining. Aside from recreating the carrier and most of the lower tube's soft metal parts out of stainless, I want to gut the LPR/HPR and hopefully fine a female stabilizer or run an automag VA. Those mods are pretty well documented and I should be able to plug and play off the old RMOG. I don't much care for the single trigger and I was wondering if I could use a different one. If I built a mounting bracket for the solenoid, could I use an eblade? I know E1's let you control all aspects of the (for lack of a better word) dwell, which would come in handy considering the "long" cycle times of the RM. Are there other existing trigger frames/boards/solenoids out there I can harvest that would cross over to the RM? Machining them to fit won't be an issue. How good is the stock ram, and are there any existing walkthroughs for modding cocker rams to fit? I know the carrier spacing is crucial, and the actual mounting might be a bitch, but I think I could make it work with a finger in the right direction. I know that's pretty long winded, but if you got this far, thanks for reading. -DK

08-10-2011, 02:42 PM	#2 (permalink)
HP_Lovecraft Post Whore Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Southern Maine	The cocker ram uses different threads, and the Rainmaker comes with a really good "off the shelf" Clippard ram. There really is no reason to change it. You can get new replacements directly from Clippard. Bimba also makes a version that will drop right in. Most any board could work, if the dwell is adjustable enough. But most open-bolt electros will have a dwell of 5-15ms. The Rainmaker will need 30-50ms. 50ms is the factory setting. With an adjustable board, and a higher LPR, you can get it down to 30ms. You will know when you have gone to far because it will no longer fire! Closed-bolt boards should have a plenty long dwell, since they are accomplishing the same thing as the rainmaker, but are designed for dual-noids. __________________ www.montneel.com "the evidence strongly suggests that neither Billy nor Adam (Smart Parts) could have invented the electronic paintgun" -Garr M. King, U.S. Judge

08-11-2011, 12:05 AM	#4 (permalink)
Rainman229 Airsmith to the Gods Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: nj	Eblade board will not work. Simply don't have enough dwell time. In a cocker the dwell is low, it only has to cock the marker and allow enoug htime for ball drop and rest to closed bolt. Usually in the max of 15ms. and then the sear noid is even faster then that. A timmy and angel board don't have enough dwell either. there cycle time is basicaly how long to keep the hammer forward and the valve open. their a little higher in dwell at 15 to 25ms. An Rm on the other hand when fired has to have enough time to pull the bolt forward and trip the hammer, open the valve to fire then release to reset the hammer. Increasing the needed dwell to 30 to 35ms. Rms are a auto trigger pump in all reality. So you have to take that pumping action in consideration in the timing. Aka the sterling best bet for a board for the rm now a days is the Scenario Dreams universal board. it should handle the dwell range. __________________ Email lastone75@aol.com Making paintball fun again feedback http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/s...ght=rainman229

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08-10-2011, 06:47 PM	#3 (permalink)
Dk-79 Newbie Join Date: Jul 2011	So does the Eblade solenoid share any similarities to the stock solenoid? I'm thinking I could mount a braket off the stock ram or body area somewhere's and simply run an E1. Frame, board, and noid.