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Old 11-29-2011, 05:56 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by randyshipp View Post
Spider!,

Did you combine my Rainmaker with another for this project? That's not the lower receiver from my RM. That S/N is in the 5000s, and mine was something like S/N 0083 or something. Just curious.

Randy...
Hah! I'm caught!

I had to buy a new lower body. I had read that you had trouble with the valve set screw before. I broke wrenches and tried lots of stuff. After much effort I managed to break a tap off in the valve set screw hole in the original. I had drilled the set screw out for the same screw size (which went very well) and very carefully broke the tap off trying to clear the threads. Whatever held the original screw in is very mean stuff after being heated and soaked, etc. I was just a turn or two from the end.

That is actually one of my next projects; a home made spark discharge machine to burn out the tap. I've run the body through my ano tank for hours and only got half of the tap out and messed up my bath. I've also tried some alum, but that just discolored the ano.

I also hope this will be the first part I try in an ano bath made with ph minus (pool chemical). The projects just go on!

***

The pool chemical ano was poop. I didn't even try this part in it. It will get a regular acid bath ano. I have three different coil setups waiting for the EDM experiment.
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Old 12-09-2011, 03:49 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by randyshipp View Post
Nice writeup! ...
Poop! Sorry I missed your other post Randy! That was a crazy week at work.

I'll get a picture of the front of the hammer, there's not much to it that Marty hasn't described, but you don't find many pictures either. I didn't even bother taking pictures of original 'cockiness' of the hammer and carrier lockup. It was as wompy as an original Nelspot 007 where it rubs the tube in four places; makes you think "really? You want this to move?". After the mods, I didn't see any reason to polish the hammer as it didn't seem to grab anywhere on its own.

The face of the hammer was dimpled a little (maybe 0.020"?) , but that alone probably wasn't the lockup problem. You can see from my locked picture above that there is about 1/16" of overtravel you can have on the carrier. However, a lot of that gets used up by angling the hammer up or down.

I have to wonder if the lock up failure was just that the ram was running out of force by the time it got there. The ball detent, with the way it hit the bolt, would have only messed with it after lock up. The lack of hammer alignment, link friction, and the sear alignment were all pretty severe looking from the wear marks and fit. The link friction was probably just bad because of the other two problems (and maybe the detent dragging). After lining things up, the much lighter superbolt main spring has plenty of force. With the original poor alignment, I can see that the tip of the sear was hitting very close to the front edge of the carrier and maybe not on the ramped area at all.

I think it was Rick's wife that was taking pictures of the game while standing next to the chrony box (with a hyperball tube catch 'drum'). She jumped about a foot on my first shot and then moved behind me. I think the stock barrel adds a lot to the sound. I need to get it out with a selection of barrels just to see. It really looks cool with the stock barrel though.

I actually replaced a couple of the older reg washers also, they looked a little flat and I had bought an extra pair. The four pair thing was odd. It obviously had room for five. Maybe it flowed too high on CO2 with five. If that was the case though, I wish they had documented it or just flipped one of the washers over and left the right number in there at least. If you had lost any washers, it would be lucky/odd that you had lost a pair.

The detent may have just fallen into the groove underneath and become pinched from being too far in. It looks like small problem that could feed on itself and get worse.

The action on the thing now is probably a lot stronger than it needs to be. Rather than putting a smaller ram in it, I think I'll try to find a smaller LPR spring and find a happy medium of speed and power. I'm used to putting my finger carefully in some of my low pressure markers, but this one is too much. If the whole action had been more precise originally, I think the pneumatics could have been much lighter. I think I've seen a timmy frame on one (Hurtcow?). They may not be able to go much faster, but certainly smoother and with less self destruction.

I'll let you know if it goes anywhere. I still need to chase some more aggsters with it.

***

^^^ check! on the aggsters last weekend.

Here's the hammer face. It turned out to be a hair loose anyway. I never loctite'd it. When I cut it, I ran it in the lathe in reverse, so that it would tighten as I cut. That wasn't quite enough. For the record, there's about four threads left on the end of the old carrier pin there.



I got the LPR re-sprung to about 65 psi. It feels a good bit softer and still seems to cycle well. It doesn't seem like it would stop on paint, but maybe on some stiff field paint. My white delrin poppet has a hair leak at the lower pressure that I have been using on the longer and tighter barrel. I ordered some softer teflon blended delrin that should help that.

***

The brown bearing delrin helped, but I still had to seat it at a higher pressure for a few hours before it killed the leak at my lower operating pressure. Now I'm just down to finding the best barrel setup and macro line routing (it's crowding a left-hand switch).
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Old 01-19-2012, 04:13 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Nice work, you should try taking a fine grinding stone or lapping compound to the valve face if you havn't already. I use the hard white delrin cup seals meant for a spider but they had the same leak as yours until I polished the seat. The original seal was a softer material(feels a bit rubbery when poked with a fingernail) and the one I have left never leaked even before polishing the seat.

For some anti-chop protection I put the stock bolts back in my rainmakers and run the LPR at ~60psi. I've got 2 of marty's black delrin bolts and one white delrin bolt, but they have a bigger hole and sharper edge on them than the stock bolt. I've never chopped a ball(tough field paint) with the stock bolt but have a couple times with the delrin bolts.
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Old 01-19-2012, 12:03 PM   #14 (permalink)
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The face came out very smooth when I cut it, and now I can't remember if I polished it or not. I thought about it.

I later found a little scratch in my white delrin seat that might have been the culprit. It may have been from a shaving I missed. I took the marker out for few dozen balls last weekend and it still behaved with the new brown seat.

I agree, 60 psi (+5/-0) seems to be a decent pressure for a modded rainmaker.

I haven't broken a ball yet, but I did open the bolt face a little more recently. I tried to keep the same contact surface. It was just a custom fit model of the stock bolt though, so I may regret that.

The red loctite is holding up on the feed neck, which I didn't expect.

I now have a hammerhead shaft that is long enough to fit the RM (ported beyond the housing). It looks great, but I haven't given it a good test yet.
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