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09-13-2007, 04:36 PM
| #1 (permalink) |
| Newbie  Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: England
Posts: 18
| Golden Eagle ~ Manual Anyone ? Hi Guys I've got my hands on a vintage green anodized "Golden Eagle" made by brass eagle, im amazed at what a monster this thing is and am rather suprised that the barrle in fact is very short which is quite deciveing to say the least with regards to the overal length of the marker. So i've stripped it all down, some of the counter sunk allen screws had to be drilled off as they where rusted into place which was a shame but can get some new ones so not a problem. Im going for a complete restore clean and polish. Does any one out there have a manual for this marker ? As i want to get my hands on a copy, i cant find anything on line about this marker and it would come in handy on the reassembly of it. Many thanks Mark Last edited by Nostromo_UK; 09-14-2007 at 04:12 PM. |
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09-13-2007, 04:44 PM
| #2 (permalink) | |
| .:|Purification Admin|:.  Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: PA
Posts: 4,913
 | Jincay might have a manual. Amazing how all these that surface now are green ones instead of the silvery ones.
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09-13-2007, 05:04 PM
| #3 (permalink) | |
| Endearingly quirky  Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Rocklin, CA
Posts: 3,688
| Vintage Rex has ad scans but no manual. It's not too difficult to re-assemble. It's kind of like a giant Tippmann. What do you need help with?
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09-14-2007, 01:13 PM
| #4 (permalink) |
| Post Whore  Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Southern Maine
Posts: 2,654
| One of the scans in the "APG Scans" section shows the breakdown of the Golden Eagle. Or maybe it was the poison? It is, for the most part, a typcical inline blowback MECHANICALLY, though with everything built to massive sizes. Almost comical how large they made everything. TO keep the gun playable, they had to make the barrel extra short to compensate. nick
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09-14-2007, 02:40 PM
| #5 (permalink) |
| Newbie Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: England
Posts: 18
| Thanks for the replys guys, well i've spent most of the day polishing up the internals, i havent touched the Valve assembly,although i would like to check the seals and give the valve a clean. I guess that if its working ok im better not try and take it apart ? Also i dont know if theres any seals in the vavle which are now unobtainable so i dont know if its worth risking it ? One question the clear O-rings broke on the Brass Air adaptor where it slides into the reciver. Can i replace them with some black o-rings of the same size or should i try and source some clear ones ? Should have it back together this weekend and then i will post some pics of it once the overhaul is complete. Many thanks Mark |
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09-14-2007, 03:57 PM
| #6 (permalink) |
| Active Member  Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: New Richmond, WI
Posts: 445
 | I think you can use a black o-ring there. It's a non-moving o-ring, so it just has to seal.
__________________ David Johnson aka Fubarius Four out of five voices in my head think I'm completely normal. |
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09-18-2007, 11:56 AM
| #7 (permalink) |
| Newbie Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: England
Posts: 18
| Hi guys, Ok everything is ready for reassembly after hours of pain staking polishing using 4 different buffing wheels to bring up the parts looking like new. Spent shed loads of time driving around from fixing shop to fixing shop in order to replace all the screws on the Golden Eagle for stainless steel ones,got most of bar one or 2 which im just going to have to live with in black phosphate, but at least all the old rusty ones are now replaced. UNF bolts are as rare as hens teeth over here ! Im now reassembling the marker got up to installing the vavle, theres 2 grub screws which are to hold the vavle in place. The holes of the vavle line up with the holes on the anodized body and the grub screws hold the vavle stactic in place. The problem im having is that the tapped holes in the air vavle are quite deep so when you screw the grub screws fully home untill they stop they are under flush inside the air valve so hence are not keeping it locked in place as they have cleared the body of the marker. Im sure that the grub screws engaged the reciver when i took it apart, one is a small grub screw and the other one is about twice as long. Perhaps im only meant to screw them into the vavle untill they are flush with the outside of the reciver and not fully home ? If this is the case i would worrie about them working their way out and undoing themselfs ? Please see attached pics. If any ones got an exploded view or parts diagram it would help me out loads. Many thanks Mark Last edited by Nostromo_UK; 09-18-2007 at 12:05 PM. |
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09-22-2007, 10:53 PM
| #8 (permalink) |
| Active Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: New Richmond, WI
Posts: 445
| I don't have a manual, heck, never seen a manual for one. Here's link to some scans from an old magazine that has a brief description and shows it dissasembled Old Magazine Scans And I think one of those screws (maybe the longer one?) is actually a choak type velocity adjuster. I know on mine I was able to adjust the velocity by sticking an allen wrench in to a hole in the right linkage cover and tightening or loosening a small allen screw.
__________________ David Johnson aka Fubarius Four out of five voices in my head think I'm completely normal. |
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