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Old 03-12-2013, 12:25 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Question What to do with a Stingray... (bring ideas)

Well, I have that black Stingray II sitting in the gearbagcrate since 1998 and I'm wondering if I could do something to make it look cooler (and I mean, at least 20% cooler ).

I thought about raping some cheap airsoft thing with it but I doubt it'll fit anywhere.

The ideal would be to have some sort of "shroud" that would do the trick without damaging the marker, but I can't find any gun design that would be big enough to hold it....

I hope my description is clear enough: I'm french and rarely have the opportunity to practice some good English.
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Old 03-12-2013, 10:09 AM   #2 (permalink)
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PM Fubarius. He made the world's most kickass-lookin' Stingray back in the day (when the Stingray Toters Internet Group was still a thing).
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Old 03-18-2013, 12:17 AM   #3 (permalink)
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You rang?

I'll post some pictures tomorrow.
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Old 03-18-2013, 05:22 PM   #4 (permalink)
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yay!

Im currently looking for some tubing I can use as a barrel, because the tiny stock one probably won't fit, whatever I decide to do.

it's kinda hard to find, because European industry standards for tubing are quite different from those in the US.
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Old 03-18-2013, 05:37 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Pick up a Lapco Remora adaptor (they're almost always on Ebay) and then you can use any Spyder barrel you want.
As for performance stuff, just polish the hell out of all the internals, Google how to do a trigger job on it, and call it a day. With my old one, even the stock 6" barrel was pretty dang accurate after a good polishing with a 12 gauge swab and a power drill.
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Old 03-18-2013, 05:46 PM   #6 (permalink)
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You can also pick up a Remora adapter to throw on any spyder threaded barrel
its how I put on my CF barrel.(sniped while uploading pics)

I still haven't had the time but I have wanted to make a stingray


into something like this
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I translated this as: Scenario games are popular with overshooting douchebags raging on cocaine and steroid cocktails while roasting puppies and punching babies. Stay home unless you enjoy impromptu fistfights.

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Old 03-18-2013, 08:51 PM   #7 (permalink)
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hummm, maybe I'll take that remora thingy (from paintball-parts.com, they have it priced 20$ and ships to EU).

I'll try polishing the internals but I'm not sure it'll have any effect on accuracy... did that on a Tippmann A5 and some BT4... slightly better regularity on the chrono, but no improvement on the accuracy side.

Something I should say is that in Europe, we almost always use HPA. CO2 is only used in the form of 12g cartridges for stock class and sidearms.

Anyway, a good polish can do no bad

I should also try to find something to replace the metal ball detent... some paint really don't like it, and shooting colourful goo is only efficient at VERY close range...
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Old 03-18-2013, 08:58 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I should also try to find something to replace the metal ball detent... some paint really don't like it, and shooting colourful goo is only efficient at VERY close range...
Just go to a craft store and buy a plastic bead about the same size. The problem with the stock detent is that it's steel, and the bolt face is aluminum. Eventually, shooting it in the stock configuration will actually wear a sharp edge onto the bottom of the bolt face, at which point it will chop EVERYTHING. Replace the detent with something plastic, sand the sharp edge out of your bolt face if it's already there, and countersink the airflow hole in the bolt face a little bit. That last part will result in the air hitting a wider area of the ball, which will also help with breakage.
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Old 03-18-2013, 09:34 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Some of these pictures are from way before digital cameras.

Here's my old ray.






The mods include Smart Parts Progressive barrel, homemade double trigger, full trigger job (front limiter, rear limiter, sear pre-load), adapted automag vertical adapter, cut back body, filled in the ribs on the body, rear cocking mod with beaver tail and covered cocking rod slot, bottom line mod which sometimes sported a t-stock, and other times an old school ring tank cradle. Plus the usual polish job, spring adjustments, etc.

Later I made a different one, called the Blue Light Special.

Started with this...


Later it evolved to this...




I found I didn't care for the rear cocking on the first one, so I stuck with a Lapco cocking knob (easier to grab than the stock one), and instead bobbed the rear ASA and added an extended rear velocity adjuster. It uses one and a half stock springs and adjusts from much lighter than stock spring tension to considerably higher than stock. Usually leave it light (better trigger pull that way), but it still has good velocity due to some rather extensive valve modifications.
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Old 03-18-2013, 10:32 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Murf425 View Post
Just go to a craft store and buy a plastic bead about the same size. The problem with the stock detent is that it's steel, and the bolt face is aluminum. Eventually, shooting it in the stock configuration will actually wear a sharp edge onto the bottom of the bolt face, at which point it will chop EVERYTHING. Replace the detent with something plastic, sand the sharp edge out of your bolt face if it's already there, and countersink the airflow hole in the bolt face a little bit. That last part will result in the air hitting a wider area of the ball, which will also help with breakage.
OK, I see.

I'll see if I can grab some plastic stuff to make some sort of spherical ghetto detent.

Ill have to sand a bit of the bolt's edges (they are sharp, especially on the bottom as expected).
not sure about the countersinking stuff (must be technical word I didn't met yet)... I suppose you mean chamfering the hole's edges to widen the ball-facing side, so air spreads better around the ball.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fubarius View Post
Some of these pictures are from way before digital cameras.

Here's my old ray.

http://fubarius.com/pictures/djray5.jpg

The mods include Smart Parts Progressive barrel, homemade double trigger, full trigger job (front limiter, rear limiter, sear pre-load), adapted automag vertical adapter, cut back body, filled in the ribs on the body, rear cocking mod with beaver tail and covered cocking rod slot, bottom line mod which sometimes sported a t-stock, and other times an old school ring tank cradle. Plus the usual polish job, spring adjustments, etc.
I certainly won't do all that (as I said, I'd prefer non-destructive mods), but I think about tinkering with the sear or detent course... in fact, as a mech marker, it should be able to reach a hi bps but the stingray is crippled by it's poor detent.
If I happen to turn it to some machine-gun-looking stuff, it'll have to show some pretty decent rate of fire, shouldn't it?

Quote:
Later I made a different one, called the Blue Light Special.

Later it evolved to this...

http://fubarius.com/pictures/bls002.jpg
http://fubarius.com/pictures/bls003.jpg

I found I didn't care for the rear cocking on the first one, so I stuck with a Lapco cocking knob (easier to grab than the stock one), and instead bobbed the rear ASA and added an extended rear velocity adjuster. It uses one and a half stock springs and adjusts from much lighter than stock spring tension to considerably higher than stock. Usually leave it light (better trigger pull that way), but it still has good velocity due to some rather extensive valve modifications.
I don't really care.. in fact, I will probably try to find a nicely-shaped, longer bolt to use as cocking rod.
The vertical ASA won't be really useful to me (you did a nice job, though), but what you did on the trigger part may be interesting!
I fist saw this last pic on the 'Nation and went to Quake's mod site.
That will be a good source of useful info while I'll be tinkering with the trigger assembly!

As I never had a single problem with velocity, I'll probably dismiss the RVA mod for this one (but if I happen to find another 'ray, I'll surely give it a try).
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