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Old 09-22-2013, 04:00 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Join Date: May 2011
Location: Pittsburgh, PA

Nightmare RVA

So the nightmare I picked up a few months back, came with an RVA tapped into the rear lower plug. I then commenced destroying the remainder of the frame screw threads in my plug. In a predicament and not wanting to spend any money, I decided to see if I had an RVA from another gun that would work. I found one that is close enough and I made it work. Here's how!

Old style, fatty striker spyder RVA's are just slightly larger that the nightmare lower tube. This pic shows the nightmare lower tube rear plug on top, then my modified Spyder RVA, a non-modified spyder RVA, and a newer style thin striker spyder RVA. Note, none of the older, fat striker spyders came with a field strip pin to my knowledge, so if you pick up one that does not have the screw threads in it to hold it in body, then it will not work for this. A stock spyder spring will need to be cut down for use as well as shown in the pic. The threads in the new RVA to hold it in place are 10-32.

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Now all you need to do it chuck it up in a lathe and remove just enough metal to make it fit nicely into the body. Cut the spring to a length that gives plenty of adjustment at a proper velocity. Start with half of a spyder mainspring and slowly clip smaller until you get where you need. Its all trial and error.

Now if you do not have access to a lathe.....

The RVA adjustment screw for the spyder is metric. 6mm x 1.0 to be exact. Easy to track down as it is a very common size. Actually, I bet your car has at least 100 of these in it somewhere! Find a nice long bolt, a couple of washers and nuts. Basically, you want to use the bolt to give you something a standard drill press or electric drill chuck can hold. The bolt I used as seen below, has a larger shank on it so I did not need any washers or nuts. I just lopped the bolt head off and chucked that baby up. I used 80 grit sand paper while the drill was spinning until the appropriate diameter was achieved. I then went to 400 and 800 grit to get a nice smooth finish. As you can see, I was not uber careful with my sanding and I ended up taking off some material I didnt need to. I plan on getting my Nightmare anodized eventually, so not a big deal to me. I bet some masking tap should give you a nice clean stop line though.

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Here is a pic of my Nightmare LB with my RVA installed. As you can see, it sticks out a bit. The stock plug is flush with the end of the tube. Not a huge concern of mine. Also, in the first pic, you can see the length differences between the stock plug and the spyder RVA. This does not affect the gun operation at all. And one more note... with this setup, the hammer may rattle around some when the gun in not cocked, because there is no spring tension on it. This also not not really affect anything.

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Old 10-10-2013, 05:03 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Vienna

Thanks for the instruction!
I want an RVA, too and i am think about tapping the original end cap. The only problem is the original spring has a larger diameter and i would need a really large screw or a plate or something between spring and screw.
Thought about fixing a Phantom Speed Feed to the front of the upper tube?
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Old 10-10-2013, 08:07 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I did think of the speed feed, but never eyed it up. The problem is how close the feed tube is to the barrel tube. A shot might hit the feed.

My original end cap was tapped. But it wasn't perfectly centered, although not a huge deal. It bugged me a little. Whoever did the mod before I bought it used like a clothing button rivet or something as the flat washer. But I would take a stroll around a good hardware store for some solid flat washers.
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Old 10-10-2013, 10:23 AM   #4 (permalink)
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thanks for the heads up!
Might get hard to find a washer with that exact size. maybe a coin will do the trick ...
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