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Old 02-05-2012, 03:23 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by worrptangl View Post
What type of springs are you using? If it's AC maddman springs that might be causing some binding. Do you have to give it extra force at the end of the stroke to get the sear to catch? That means your probably having to compress the valve spring slightly to get it to catch.

Earon uses main springs that have 10 coils and are a finer gauge. They are the same length as a Maddman spring. His valve springs are 8-9 coils with the same properties. But nelson length.
I mentioned that earlier too. Damn it.
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Old 02-05-2012, 03:25 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I had the A/T issue with mine and had a more or less unconventional solution recommended. It may sound random, but placing a small strip of electrical tape between the trigger frame and body completely fixed my A/T problem. I actually placed 2 very thin strips, one left, one right, leaving the center/moving parts unrestricted. The strips are 3 or 4 inches long and 1/8 inch wide. Problem fixed. Thanks Leafy.
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Old 02-05-2012, 04:08 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by worrptangl View Post
What type of springs are you using? If it's AC maddman springs that might be causing some binding. Do you have to give it extra force at the end of the stroke to get the sear to catch? That means your probably having to compress the valve spring slightly to get it to catch.

Earon uses main springs that have 10 coils and are a finer gauge. They are the same length as a Maddman spring. His valve springs are 8-9 coils with the same properties. But nelson length.
Yes - to the extra force at the end of the stroke. I'm not sure what spring it has in it but it is a little longer than the one that came w/ the "new" set of internals. I've got a madman set so I'll have to compare. Thanks for the info - I love MCB for that very reason!

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Originally Posted by TheYoda View Post
I had the A/T issue with mine and had a more or less unconventional solution recommended. It may sound random, but placing a small strip of electrical tape between the trigger frame and body completely fixed my A/T problem. I actually placed 2 very thin strips, one left, one right, leaving the center/moving parts unrestricted. The strips are 3 or 4 inches long and 1/8 inch wide. Problem fixed. Thanks Leafy.
Interesting... wish I'da thought about doing something like that before doing the permanent mod that I did. Hindsight's a b!tch... Good info for others tho who will inevitably experience the same thing in thier buzzard in the future.

Realized I need to pick up a new rear frame screw too... the hex-slot is a little stripped so I think I'm not getting it torqued down good (allen key slips) which is leading to snub creap during game-play... not a big problem since I can now adjust the barrel to counter the creap, but ultimately an $0.18 bolt could help fix the problem - and then getting a set screw tapped in the top of the snub/valve would be another great addition in the future.
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Old 02-05-2012, 04:13 PM   #14 (permalink)
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My carter's all did that when I swapped to a non Carter spring.
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You so late G.I choochie sold it today at the field something bout it being a Frankenstein Duck.
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He traded it for a ego silly!!!!!

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Old 02-06-2012, 09:21 AM   #15 (permalink)
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short... try a different set of allen wrenches on that back hex (maybe a bigger set with more smaller increments), I was able to get a perfect fit on that one every time.
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Old 02-06-2012, 04:52 PM   #16 (permalink)
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short... try a different set of allen wrenches on that back hex (maybe a bigger set with more smaller increments), I was able to get a perfect fit on that one every time.
I had to hit Home depot today to pick up a Torx driver set anyways, so I grabbed a set of replacement screws for $1... easy peasy
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