Paintball

[short304]

EDIT/ADDITION: Feb 5th, 2012 - I switched the original internals back into the gun after playing w/ it again and noticing that the sear would not catch w/ every rear-ward pump stroke... I figure I'd rather just use what works for now and do a good thorough search on this issue... Overall, I love playing w/ this gun



Last weekend I picked up the buzzard in the thread linked below (w/ full disclosure from the seller of the previous AT issue and the compatability issue w/ the new set of internals).

bolt assembly question

Anyways, after playing w/ it today w/ the original set of internals in it and experiencing the issue of the snub moving forward slightly causing unwanted Autotriggering upon forward pump return (no biggie really just a PITA), I decided I'd give the set of new internals that came w/ it a try and I ran into the AT issue even with the snub all the way rear-ward. I decided to take some of the previous advice in the above post and trim a SMALL portion of the bottom of the new Sear off to prevent it from being tripped by the trigger - don't know why I didn't just swap the sears first... (First I pulled the trigger out of the trigger frame and discovered that unlinke SPLATTTTTs picture in an older thread, mine does not have a travel adjustment screw). Well, I trimmed to much (~ 1/16 of an inch); with the barrel all the way in and the snub all the way back it wouldn't trip the sear ,

I realized the problem was that the sear wasn't far enough forward so I figured the best way to remedy this would be to unscrew the barrel slightly, and of course it worked. So I threw two 017 o-rings on the back of the barrel and screwed it in and now I have a small range of "tightness" on the barrel in which I can adjust the barrel from autotriggering upon the forward movement of the pump to not tripping the sear when the barrel is fully screwed in. The range of this adjustment is about 2 full turns. I'm actually VERY happy that I have this "external" adjustment now. If I run into an unwanted AT on the field, all I have to do is tighten the barrel a half a turn to stop it.

Anyways, I accidentally solved the AT problem I guess. I'm amazed at the precision that Earon put into each set of internals - it is literally less than 1/8 inch of tolerance between a "no-sear-trip" condition and unwanted autotrigger. I REALLY like how the gun is designed - I laughed the first time I pulled the snub out and the bolt slid out the front of it! LOL... didn't expect it.


Oh and it shot great today for the first time out onto the field... shooting .684-.687 paint thru the stock (.688?) barrel w/ nail-polish detents. Shot darts 9 out of 10 shots all day long!

I'll try and get some pics up tomorrow in the daylight

[worrptangl]

Yep that is one of the fixes for this problem. Glad it was that simple of a fix. Sometimes it's not.

Congrats!

[short304]

I have to admit taking a dremel to a Carter (even just the sear) felt like checking the tire pressure on a Farrari w/ a base-ball bat... scary to say the least

[worrptangl]

Well that's a last resort. Most times it's installing a small set screw to mount the snub to the valve.

[lechooch]

nice!

[short304]

Originally Posted by worrptangl

Well that's a last resort. Most times it's installing a small set screw to mount the snub to the valve.

I will probably do that as well. I was surprised that just playing a few games w/ it caused it to slowly creep up. By the time I had played 4 games (120 rounds or so) it was autotriggering w/ each pump return

[splattttttt]

Originally Posted by worrptangl

Yep that is one of the fixes for this problem. Glad it was that simple of a fix. Sometimes it's not.

Congrats!

Exactly, sometimes it's the opposite... Like when the sear goes past the ramp of the trigger.
A fatter oring will solve that issues. Just like a thinner oring will help if the problem when the sear is not reaching the ramp. Then use a thinner oring, not a dremmel I mentioned this in that other thread.

[short304]

Just an update - after playing w/ the Buzzard w/ the new set of internals (w/ home-job modified sear), I chose to switch back to the original set of internals (the one w/ the chipped bolt face). While, it would trip the sear w/ every trigger pull, I was still experiencing a weird issue w/ the sear not catching the bolt w/ every rearward pump, and before I go and "modify" the sear again, I figure I'd rather just play w/ it w/ the set of internals that work every time I still can't figure out why the sear will not catch every time (?)... anyone venture a guess? I'm going to do a more thorough search momentarily.

For now I'm happy just playing w/ the original set of internals... This gun is a kick in the pants to play with!

[lechooch]

Originally Posted by short304

Just an update - after playing w/ the Buzzard w/ the new set of internals (w/ home-job modified sear), I chose to switch back to the original set of internals (the one w/ the chipped bolt face). While, it would trip the sear w/ every trigger pull, I was still experiencing a weird issue w/ the sear not catching the bolt w/ every rearward pump, and before I go and "modify" the sear again, I figure I'd rather just play w/ it w/ the set of internals that work every time I still can't figure out why the sear will not catch every time (?)... anyone venture a guess? I'm going to do a more thorough search momentarily.

For now I'm happy just playing w/ the original set of internals... This gun is a kick in the pants to play with!

a kick in the pants? That sounds like a bad thing? Glad you like it!

[worrptangl]

What type of springs are you using? If it's AC maddman springs that might be causing some binding. Do you have to give it extra force at the end of the stroke to get the sear to catch? That means your probably having to compress the valve spring slightly to get it to catch.

Earon uses main springs that have 10 coils and are a finer gauge. They are the same length as a Maddman spring. His valve springs are 8-9 coils with the same properties. But nelson length.